Historically, when invited to check out the latest Pivot mountain bike in Tempe, AZ I’ve found myself packing to navigate the intense heat. Which is why this time around, I found it particularly odd to be stressing about what cold and wet weather gear to bring. 

By this point, you probably know that Pivot has a new Switchblade. Unsure of what to expect out of a bike that had just relaunched a few years ago, I dumped all my rain gear into a bag and headed off to Phoenix. 

After a factory tour attempted to delay the inevitable, we set off for our first ride straight from Pivot’s headquarters in Tempe to their local testing grounds – South Mountain. The skies looked promising, and as we pedaled our way up the mountain, I was able to start focusing on the bike. Air down the tires. Check the suspension. Adjust saddle position. 

From my first impressions (which in typical Pivot fashion, came before we were told anything about the new bike), the seat tube angle felt noticeably steeper than the prior version. It turns out that it’s 1º steeper, but to me it feels like more. To me, the size medium STA feels steeper than the Yeti SB120 that I’ve been riding, but both have an effective STA of 76.5º on paper. For me, the STA is plenty steep but I’m also on the small side of a medium frame, meaning my effective seat tube angle will be steeper than someone riding a medium with the post extended further.

Before long, I had things pretty well dialed and we had made solid progress up the climb. And that’s when the skies opened up. It was light at first. Then came and went, before opening up into a full deluge that transformed the trails into their own little rivers. Fortunately, the rocky & sandy trails are built to shrug off the occasional downpour, but it did provide us with quite an interesting descent. 

All of a sudden, you could no longer see the trail in spots. It was just a string of puddles with no indication of how deep they could be. Having just ridden up the trail I had some idea of what to expect, but it was still an exercise in quick decision-making while squinting to see through the barrage of water. 

The storm didn’t last all that long, but it helped create a lasting impression of the bike. In the moment, forced to resort to my lizard brain, there wasn’t time to think. In that situation on a completely new bike, it can go one of two ways – it can feel completely natural and comfortable, or it could be alien and unsure. The Switchblade was the former. 

Fortunately, our second ride on the bike was in much better conditions. This time we headed out to the Hawes trail network for a day of true hero dirt. Easily the best dirt conditions I’ve ever experienced in the Phoenix area, the ride started off cool but finished nearly perfect with blue sky. 

On this ride, thinking was no longer a luxury and I was able to focus on how the bike was performing. Most noteworthy to me was how well the Switchblade climbed up tight switchbacks. Riding in a group always includes a bit of yo-yoing, and that potential bunching can be tricky on a tight switchback. Even in those technical situations, the Switchblade is incredibly poised. 

Going slow or fast up the climbs, it didn’t seem to matter. The front wheel seemed unflappable, and the rear wheel really did seem to ‘dig’ into the terrain, propelling you forward. More than once I got into a situation where I felt a dab was inevitable, only to pedal through and keep on going. 

With a head tube angle of 65.7º, it’s only 0.3º slacker than the previous generation. But the reach has also increased by 15mm on the medium. The combination makes for a sharp handling bike that is still completely confident in awkward tech sections of trail. To me, the geometry strikes a solid balance for all-around mountain biking which is what the Switchblade is meant to be. This is supposed to be that one bike that you can head out for some XC missions one day, while hitting up the bike park the next.

By the last few long descents of the day, I was feeling more confident on the newest Switchblade than any of the previous generations. Despite being stiff in all the right places with razor-sharp handling, the newest Switchblade is a bike that seems to be incredibly user-friendly. 

At this point, I’ve ridden all of the past Switchblades, and there is no question that this is the best yet. Fans of internal storage will be disappointed, but the Pivot Dock System does give you an additional spot to stash your tools. On the plus side, the frame will fit a large water bottle easily, and without a special cage.

Ultimately, the new Switchblade isn’t a huge departure from the version released in 2020, but it has the right updates to keep it competitive. It might not be enough of a change to tempt current Switchblade owners to upgrade, but those who do are surely getting a better bike.

The post Pivot Switchblade Review: A Great Bike Gets Even Better appeared first on Bikerumor.

Hot off the presses, Colnago introduced its first ‘C’ Series gravel bike, the C68 Gravel. This bike is only Colnago’s second dedicated gravel bike, but it’s a sure shot. The bike isn’t a soft lob at “all things gravel.” It’s a fast, opinionated, and stunning piece of handmade Italian craftsmanship, and even more importantly, it rides like a dream. 

Colnago Depth in Drop Bar Dirt

Colnago has such depth in the sport of cycling that it’s easy to forget how many legendary riders once called their frames home. It’s not just road riding, though it’s hard to overlook Pogačars’ talent and tie it to the brand. Years ago, Wout and Mathieu were riding Colnago; before that, Sven, before him Adri van der Poel (MVDPs’ Dad), and before all of them, Roger De Vlaeminck.

There are too many to name (I know some of you can so leave those in the comments if you’d like), but the point I’m making here is that Colnago knows drop-bar dirt. So when the iconic Italian brand said they were making a C Series gravel bike, we knew it would be unique.

Check out our news piece here to learn more about the C68 Gravel’s construction, ethos, and overall tech specs. 

Colnago C Series Treatment

The C series bikes in the Colnago line are the top; by that, we mean the very top. The UAE Team Emirates rides the V series, one below C in the lineup. Yes, the bikes are painted in Italy but are not hand-assembled in the Colnago plant like the C versions. 

How Much?

This attention to detail and expectation of the customer makes the C series frames something more than a carbon frame; it feels custom in a way. But, with top-of-the-line treatment comes top-of-the-line pricing, and the C68 doesn’t shy away from a hefty price tag; the frameset is $7,100. Yes — you can get the C68 in Shimano GRX for $7,999, with alloy wheels, but if you want the dentist special, you’ll pay upwards of $14K for your ride. 

The big question of the C68 Gravel “Is it worth the price?” I think we can answer that…

First Impressions 

I first saw the C68 Gravel at a press launch in San Diego with the Colnago USA/Italy crew. The design/engineering team behind the C68 Gravel was present and laid down a clear concept and performance expectation for the new machine. 

In a nutshell, the C68 is meant for speed and performance, not adventuring or bike packing. The frame is modular, and each tube is tailored to the bike’s size and handmade in Combiago, Italy. The ride will feel refined, responsive, and controllable on a single track. It will feel like a powerful, balanced endurance road machine, with muted road chatter on the gravel and pavement. 

When I initially saw the C68 Gravel, I thought, “Look at that paint,” and then, ” Look at the head tube.” But other than that, the bike is very subdued. It has no screaming paint job with Italian flags on every tube; it’s a little understated, elegant, and sculpted. 

Ride Impressions — Colnago C68 Gravel 

Did you ever get on a bike, make one minor adjustment, and feel like, “this is it”. Well, that’s what happened with me and the C68 Gravel. The bar and stem on the C68 Gravel are the Colnago CC.01 Wide one-piece bar/stem with no adjustability. Luckily, it fits me very well. For frame size. I rode the 48s (54cm) frame with a 100mm stem and felt pleasantly in control of the front end while still being low enough to be aerodynamic in the wind. I usually ride a 40c bar with a 120mm stem on my gravel bike, and this combo feels very familiar. The slight adjustment I made was the seat post height. Coming off of cyclocross season, my seat post was slightly lower for on/off the bike efforts. That height didn’t feel right on the C68 Gravel, and I raised it to my road saddle height, which locked everything in place off the start.

My riding consisted of two days of gravel and trail riding with the Colnago crew, pushing the C68 Gravel from fun group riding to race pace and “this should be OK?” territory. 

Road Sensations 

We started our rides through the beach roads of coastal San Diego, then off to the pastures and gravel to test the bike, free from motorized distractions. On the road, the C68 Gravel could move. The sensation was that of a road bike with a predictable geometry you feel confident piloting. My bike was equipped with 40mm Pirelli gravel tires: a Pirelli Gravel M in the front with some extra bite and a Gravel H in the rear for speed. 

Our rides were a mix of pebbled gravel climbing, techy bits, and lots of twisty new-to-me San Deigo single track. I started the ride with 35psi in the rear and 33psi in the front. At 158lbs, that felt solid for familiar territory and to ward off flats. I was happy with my tire pressure when we entered the single track. The bike could slice through the turns without washing out and climb punchy sections without slipping. I found the climbing balance point of the bike quickly and felt confident climbing loose terrain.

Cyclocross Quickness

In the cyclocross style on/off sections of the trails, the C68 was a tick above other gravel bikes I’ve ridden. The handling and driving in close-quarters trails was like being on a shorter ‘cross bike. The comfort of the ride, however, was different. Coming from my ‘cross machine, I’m used to some knocking around and some stiffness. The C68 felt calm; the ride was clean and predictable. This could be attributed to the larger tires, but it wasn’t only that — It’s hard to put a finger on it. All the elements worked together very well, and the geometry is right where I prefer a gravel bike — a near ‘cross bike. (coming from a CX racer).

Now, I’ll be the first to admit I like riding my ‘cross bike for basically everything. The C68 Gravel feels like that but more normalized. Instead of feeling under-biked but having fun on the gnarly trails, I felt like I was on the correct bike. The sturdy frame felt rock solid while pushing through the berm and pump track sections.

On the longer steep climbs, the C68 rode predictably and had a nice kick from a push against the pedals. The feeling is like when on a steep climb with a sturdy road frame, and you can really dig into the effort. 

Is this Cool? 

There comes a time in every ride when you push the limits, and on the C68 Gravel, those times were flying down some techy single track and rocky/washboard-style descents. Taking a $14K bike down this terrain can be nerve-racking (fun), but the bike performed excellently. The shorter stem allows for a playful front end and helps you pull out of a tailspin if your handling is slightly off. For example; while descending some unfamiliar cracked earth features (the kind where the trail can eat your wheel up to the hub). I found myself off the line and bouncing towards doom, in a last-ditch effort I pulled to jump back on the line but prepped for a fall. The bike reacted quickly, and I was safe from the dreaded press camp crash.

Colnago C68 Gravel — Lasting Impressions 

Having spent two days of mixed-surface riding on the Colnago C68 Gravel, I have strong impressions of the bike. First off, I liked the ride (not just the trails). The customer for the C68 Gravel could be (is) a more road-focused gravel rider who likes to go fast, not necessarily slogging through miles of roots and rocks. That said, the bike can handle it, and gravel is unique because everyone defines it differently. Colnagos definition of gravel with the C68 Gravel is comfortable, fast, elegant, and powerful. 

The C68 Gravel is a fantastic ride, but it might not be for everyone. Colnago is cool with that. However, if you’re looking for a bike that handles beautifully, like a bike you’ve ridden for years, it is worth checking one out. 

Is it worth the price? Well, that’s up to the buyer, but if you can purchase a C68 Gravel and appreciate the road feel and elegance — this is your gravel bike — this could be your only bike. If you’re looking for something to race ‘cross on and do some endurance gravel events, the G-3X might be a better fit. Either way, Colnago has entered gravel full force, and the C68 is a clear statement of intent. This bike challenges what a road-focused, “classically styled” gravel bike can be. Something more refined than ultra-wide bars, mountain bike tires, and dropper posts.

Colnago.com

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Yesterday, I wrote a long breakdown of Scott’s all-new carbon Ransom enduro bike, but now I want to dive deeper into my experience riding the top-spec Scott Ransom 900 RC. Scott developed the new bike to take enduro up a notch. And with an all-new 6-bar suspension design and unique rear suspension remote, they created what I see as a freeride bike for the downhills and an all-mountain trail bike for the climbs. With almost no compromises at either end of the spectrum.

Riding the new Scott Ransom 900 RC carbon enduro bike

I spent three long days back in mid-November riding the new bike on steep, rocky & loose natural trails in Santa Coloma de Farners, just outside of Girona, Spain. And I came away wanting to ride the bike more and more. And then I left. Wishing that my home bikepark wasn’t already deep in snowy skiing season for the next several months.

All-new 6-bar suspension design

There’s plenty that’s unique about the new bike. Like its relatively complicated 6-bar suspension design. Or the Integrated Suspension Technology design that hides the rear shock inside the bulbous downtube. Or internal frame storage, internal cable routing, adjustable geometry, and more.

Read my full 2024 Scott Ransom launch story for all the nerdy details.

But what really struck me about the bike was that it was just super composed and playful to ride. With three distinct personalities.

It could be a full gas freeride bike that wanted to fly down rough tracks at high speed. It could be a progressive enduro bike that dove into technical sections and popped off every lip on the trail. Or it was a upright trail bike, that clawed its way up steep and tight climbs.

How it does all three comes down to Trac-Loc

This is genuinely the single most important feature of the new Ransom. And it is what makes you really able to enjoy the 170mm of plush 6-bar rear suspension.

You can’t actually see the tech that makes this work. Because it happens inside the custom Fox Float X Nude EVOL rear shock. And you can’t even see that because Scott hides it inside the frame. So, instead we look at the 3-position Twin-Loc 2 remote. The two upper levers cycle you through 3 rear shock modes – Climb, Ramp Control & Descend. And the lower lever is your dropper post remote.

It’s not a lockout, but rather three different shock tunes accessible at the push of a button.

Climb, Ramp Control, or Descend

The fully open Descend mode is built to fly. Here you get unrestricted access to the best that the 6-bar can deliver. A rearward axle path and progressive linkage rate that east up big hits for breakfast. Go down as fast as you can hold on, like you are riding a few years old DH bike, but upgrade with 29er wheels to roll over everything.

The middle Ramp Control mode is the most interesting. By closing an air chamber in the rear shock, you effectively get volume spacers that you drop in at the push of a button. No change to the full 170mm of travel or your compression damping settings. The bike just becomes instantly more progressive.

Changing volume spacers to adjust your shock progression for different riding conditions isn’t really feasible for the average mountain biker. But being able to do the same thing at the flick of a switch is game-changing.

Interestingly, the middle Ramp Control mode is a lot of fun on descents that aren’t too technical – think flowy berms and jump lines. But it’s also good for climbs that aren’t as smooth or steep.

Lastly, Climb mode increases compression damping, reduces rear travel down to 130mm, and lowers the air volume for more progression. Together, it makes you sit up higher in the stiffened suspension, and makes pedaling uphill a breeze. Perfect for when you really need to stomp up some steep climbs that demand your attention.

Riding the new Scott Ransom 900 RC out on the trail

The first thing I did on the new Ransom was pedaling up steep, rocky, sandy fire road climbs. And alternating between Ramp Control & Climb let me adjust the bike to how my legs were feeling at the time.

Then as the big rock slab descents got steeper and rougher, I would transition from the playful Ramp Control mode into full-on Descend to let the bike soak up the big and sometimes unexpected hits. And as I got up to full-send speeds, I could let the gravity-shredding magic of the new 6-bar really do its thing.

How much does it really weigh?

Looking back at it now, it’s no big surprise that my sub 16kg ready-to-ride test bike climbed well in 130mm travel mode. (Size Large at 15.96kg with 480g of Mallet DH pedals, a bottle cage, set up tubeless, and with a spare tube, levers & chaintool inside the matchbox internal storage.)

Of course, that’s not superlight for a trail bike, but with a gravity-ready burly build it’s really not that heavy. My steel enduro hardtail weighs almost that with everything I carry on regular rides. And my carbon fatbike with 130mm fork, a frame pack to carry extra warm clothes, and light studded tires weighs the same at the moment. And I’m happy to pedal those slowly up endless climbs, too.

Weight is really the only compromise in Climb mode. And there don’t really feel like there are any in Ramp Control or Descend modes.

Transforming from Trail to Enduro to Freeride, and back again

The transformation seems like a much bigger attitude shift than I’m used to in bikes with remote lockouts or adaptable geometry. Singling out one, I feel like the shift is significantly more that the experience I’ve had with Canyon’s innovative ShapeShifter on their Strive enduro bike. Plus, I appreciate that the Ransom achieves the same concept entirely inside the shock, which feels less complicated, and less likely to deteriorate in performance over time.

I pedaled up a lot on this bike. It undoubtedly is totally a reasonable climber. But internally, we got to talking about ebikes after riding this new bike, because at this price & weight-level, there are some solid e-Trail eMTB options, too. For those that are itching for the assist to cram more ascents/descents in, there is a use-case for eMTB in some locales.

But the Ransom is simply so much more fun descending on really rough trails, that I’m happy to take a few extra minutes and sweat out a bit more on the climbs to get to my downhills.

And really it would/will be a blast in the bikepark. It feels way more like a DH bike going down than most of the enduro bikes that I regularly ride at my local uplift. And way better at climbing than the other big bikes, more on par going uphill with lighter all-mountain or trail bikes. The 2024 Scott Ransom is now officially a gravity bike, but it manages to vastly improve pedal-ability at the same time thanks to Trac-Loc and user adjustable geometry.

2024 Scott Ransom 900 RC build spec

The 2024 Scott Ransom 900 RC reviewed here is the top-tier 10,000€ build, with the full HMX carbon frameset, Fox Factory suspension, and a SRAM X0 Eagle AXS Transmission. While, there’s not a lot more you could ask for, even with money as no object. Perhaps a gravity-ready carbon wheelset could save a few grams. But for a bike built to smash bikepark laps and race blindly through rock gardens, the aluminum RaceFace R30 wheels are at least something to not worry about.

Now do I really need all those fancy components to enjoy an enduro bike? I think there are plenty of compromises I could make to save a few bucks, and still be happy.

It’s really hard to ignore the 10,000€ pricetag of the bike, no matter how good it rides. Sure, there are a lot of more expensive bikes out there. But this is clearly far out of many riders’ budgets. There is a silver lining though…. All of the unique tech that makes this bike great, is also available at lower pricepoints. Not exactly cheap. But the 6000€ 920 & 5200€ 930 have the same 3-mode rear shock function, a slightly heavier carbon & alloy frame, and more affordable mechanical drivetrains. At just 1-1.5kg weight penalty.

Final Thoughts on the new Ransom

I can’t think of a bike I’ve ridden in recent memory that was more composed and confident on the downhills than this new Scott Ransom.

And I kinda fell in love with its Trac-Loc remote. Especially, riding even downhills with the rear shock in the middle Ramp Control mode was a playful blast. And I really wish this was an option on almost every big travel bike I ride – from all-mountain to DH. Then, of course, popping it into Climb mode transformed the bike completely. It didn’t drop 2kg which would have been nice, but it did make it climb much better than I anticipated.

If I were looking to buy a new bike for enduro racing and riding bikepark laps, this is the first bike that I would think of. But realistically, I would consider those more affordable models first.

Scott-Sports.com

The post Scott Ransom 900 RC Review: Go Big on a DH-Ready Enduro Bike I Can Pedal Uphill, Too! appeared first on Bikerumor.

I’m lucky to live in an area with delightfully steep and rough terrain. Because of that, long-travel bikes like Trek’s Slash are right up my alley. The 2024 Slash’s generation 6 frame is ready to get rowdy with a new high-pivot suspension linkage and 170mm travel. The bike simply plows through rough terrain, but remains impressively capable of getting itself back uphill for more laps.

The short story is I have nothing negative to say about Trek’s transition to the high-pivot suspension linkage. The new Slash is buttery smooth, yet offers a surprisingly poppy ride and still climbs as aggressively as their ABP bikes. The Slash is not the lightest bike, but that’s kinda fair since it’s such a beast.

2024 Trek Slash: Key Specs

For full details on the new Slash lineup, check out my launch article from September.  Before we get into the ride review, here are a few key specs and features of the 2024 Slash.

Most models of the Slash, including the 9.9 X0 AXS T-Type model I tested, come with full carbon frames. There are two aluminum complete models and an alloy frameset in the lineup. Of course, the biggest update for the Slash is the high-pivot linkage. The Slash now offers 170mm rear travel and all models come with 170mm forks.

Another interesting change for the new Slash is that they all come stock with a mixed-wheel setup (except small frames, which run dual 27.5” wheels). Frame sizes medium and up can run a 29” rear wheel, but you must buy the geo-correcting shock mounts from Trek. You’ll also have to remove the rear fender, as it doesn’t leave enough clearance for the 29” rear wheel.

The Slash boasts very slack and adjustable head tube angles, which can be altered by adding Trek’s angle adjust headset cups. Trek also incorporated their leverage rate chip into the shock mounts, offering ‘less’ and ‘more’ progressive settings. The Slash does not have Trek’s mino link anymore, as the other adjustments offer plenty of opportunity for fine tuning. Trek also decided to do away with their Knock Block headset.

A nice finishing touch for the carbon-framed Slash is Trek’s new ‘Carbon Armor’ frame protection. Before they’re painted, Trek wraps the frames with an impact-resistant film.

The Slash 9.9 X0 AXS T-Type (size M/L) weighs 35.76 lbs with pedals. Considering this is a beastly 170mm travel bike, and has extra hardware for its high pivot linkage, I guess I couldn’t hope for much better. I have to say though, with a full carbon frame, carbon rims and a lightweight carbon bar/stem combo, I was a bit surprised to see this high-end model come in over 35lbs.

Geometry/Fit:

At 5’10” and riding a M/L frame, I’m very happy with the Slash’s geometry. For this article, I’ll discuss the geo of my test bike, which has neutral headset cups and its stock mixed-wheel setup. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a compatible 29” rear wheel on hand to test.

So you know, the geometry remains very similar if you install a 29” rear wheel. Aside from the chainstay length growing by 6mm, there are very minor differences in certain angles and measurements. Check out Trek’s website to see all the different geo charts.

My test bike’s head tube angle is 63.3°, and I loved it. The slack steering angle tackles steep and rough terrain like a champ, but as I’ve found with slacker long-travel bikes it doesn’t hamper climbing ability by much. I’m not sure if I would go any slacker for trail riding, but if I set up a Slash for bike park shredding I’d be tempted to try the slacker headset cups. At 63.3° the Slash offers a ton of stability and feels great on steep downhills, yet the bike still doesn’t feel overly long or clumsy on tight switchbacks.

Helping get you uphill is a steep effective seat mast angle of 77.3°. With a lengthy reach of 468.1mm, that steep seat tube leans you into a well-balanced position over the bike. This is one of the longer bikes I’ve ridden, but I never felt like my arms were overextended.

With Trek’s size-specific chainstays, the M/L mixed-wheel Slash’s rear end measures 434.2mm. This middle-of-the-road length, especially with the 27.5” rear wheel, keeps the Slash pleasantly agile. Overall the bike feels long and very stable at speed, but the rear end simply whips around corners. I should note this is the first MX bike I’ve ridden, and I quickly understood why people like them. I’ve never been amazing at cornering, but I felt like I suddenly got better when I hopped on this bike!

Looking at the numbers, the Slash isn’t the lowest bike out there. The standover height is not particularly low at 766mm, and neither is the BB height of 351mm. Up front the stack height is 632.1mm. I don’t remember banging pedals or the 165mm cranks very much, so the BB height allows decent clearance on the trail. It’s higher than some competitors, but the Slash’s long wheelbase and slack steering still provide a very stable ride.

Climbing:

On my first ride with the Slash, I did notice the slightly sluggish roll of the 27.5” rear wheel. I had been riding niners for a few weeks before the Slash arrived, and I have to admit I felt the difference right away.

That said, I quickly forgot about the smaller rear wheel and adapted to the Slash’s ride. While I’ll never say it’s the best climber I’ve ridden, it does very well for how burly a bike it is. Shedding some weight and running 29” wheels would make it climb better, but that’s not what the Slash is all about. Trek describes this bike as ‘70% downhill, 30% uphill’ but I’d say it climbs a little better than that suggests. 

I’ve always found Trek’s ABP linkage to climb aggressively and powerfully, and the new high-pivot version doesn’t behave too differently. Trek tuned the new Slash’s anti-squat to be pretty close to their Top Fuel XC/trail bike, so your pedalling inputs won’t force you deep into the Slash’s lengthy travel.

Climbing singletrack with the shock in firm, I’d get about 50% travel. In open mode, the shock would dip a bit further but top out around 60-65%. I’ll take the slightly rougher ride and increased pedal support from the shock’s firm mode, because in either setting I had solid traction on any singletrack climb. In firm mode the Slash doesn’t erase small bumps; you still feel the trail below you with the shock resisting those low-speed impacts.

In open mode, the shock helps soften those small bumps and offers a more comfortable ride. Fortunately, there is little sacrifice in pedalling efficiency when the shock is left open, so riders looking for maximum traction can opt to climb this long-travel machine wide open with practically no penalty.  

With the rear shock left wide open, I tried some hard pedaling and sprinting on paved roads to see what the Slash’s high-pivot linkage would do. Sitting down and mashing the pedals as best I could, I could not get the bike beyond 40% travel (from 30% sag). Even standing up and sprinting, I only made it a bit further than 40%. It’s clear that Trek’s linkage handles pedaling forces very well. The bike was in its ‘more’ progressive position for this test, but I don’t think it would behave much differently in the ‘less’ setting so early in the travel.

It’s always nice when a bike has no unusual setup requirements. With the Slash, I pumped the shock up to body weight in psi, set rebound/compression to my usual ranges, and the bike was dialed. Right away I was getting full travel from the rear shock (with the leverage chip in ‘less’ position), which is sometimes an issue for my 145lbs self.

Descending:

I’ve always found Trek’s MTBs to be great at gobbling up bumps, but the high-pivot Slash is even better. I noticed it does particularly well at eating up mid-sized bumps, happily plowing through roots and rocks. The rearward axle path does a great job of numbing bigger hits and keeping the Slash feeling planted on rough trails. I found the bike cushions landings very well, especially on little jumps that send you right onto a rocky or rooty patch. 

It’s hard to pinpoint a weak spot in the Slash’s suspension. At higher speeds, the bike smooths out small bump chatter very well, and as noted above it rounds off medium and big hits nicely.

Furthermore, with all that squish when you want it, the Slash actually seems to pop off jumps a bit better than the 2019 Remedy I owned for several years. It also springs out of corners surprisingly well, as I’ve traditionally found Treks to be a better example of plowy than lively and poppy. It seems the big Slash has maintained an impressive degree of mid-stroke support.

Just looking at this frame, you’d probably expect it to be stiff and you’d be correct. Just like the previous generation Slash and Fuel EX I rode, I found the 2024 Slash’s frame offers a solid, commanding feel as you charge down rough trails.

For most of my rides, I had the leverage chip in its ‘less’ setting, but I flipped it to ‘more’ for my last few test laps. Interestingly, the ‘more’ setting doesn’t seem to increase bottom-out resistance by much; I hit full travel on a typical trail loop in the first ride in this setting.

What I found is the rear wheel does feel like it’s resisting bigger, sharper hits more. Under my lightweight self, the Slash felt a bit less plowy and the back wheel would bounce a bit more facing sharp impacts. The only time I got a good ‘thunk’ out of this bike’s rear end was while riding in the ‘more’ position. For me, there’s no question I’d keep the Slash in its ‘less’ setting. The biggest joy of this bike is how capably it sucks up rough terrain, and I’ll take all the squish it has to offer.

The Slash’s 27.5” rear wheel offers good clearance. I rode the steepest trail in my local network and didn’t hit my ass on the tire once (and I have on my personal 29er)! As mentioned above, the mullet setup also has an immediately noticeable benefit in the corners. After you initiate a turn, you then feel the back end hook in and bring you around quicker than a 29er would.

Chain Drop?

Some of you may have seen reports of the new Slash dropping chains. Apparently, some of the bikes were sent out with the lower chain guides incorrectly installed, and some riders had issues with chain drop. After many rides on my test bike, I got the notice from Trek and found out it was indeed not to spec… however I never dropped a chain.

By the time I got the info on how to correct the situation, winter had set in and my testing was pretty much done. I rode the bike two or three more times without even adjusting the chain guide, and still never once lost my chain.

To fix this issue Trek is making sure all Slashes will now be shipped out with the correct setup. They’ve also notified dealers on how to fix the issue, and as an extra precaution, they’re supplying upper idler pulleys with longer teeth to dealers at no charge. As of early 2024, anyone with a new Slash can go to their local shop and have the revised idler installed.

If you’re wondering about potentially increased drag with the high-pivot chain line, I can’t say I noticed anything measurable. Of course, this is a brand new bike; over time the upper pulley might produce extra drag if the bearing wears out, but with all new components the Slash pedalled like any other MTB.

Components:

A RockShox Zeb fork was the obvious choice for the burly new Slash. The 9.9 X0 AXS T-Type bike I rode gets the Ultimate model with a DebonAir spring and Charger 3 RC2 damper. The fork is stiff, offers great initial sensitivity, and sucks up bigger hits in class-leading fashion.

Out back, RockShox’s Vivid Ultimate rear shock performed great with very little fidgeting. The stock tune feels pretty linear which works well for a smaller guy like me, allowing full squish on nearly any descent. The shock’s firm mode resists low-speed impacts nicely, but doesn’t ride like you’re at near-lockout firmness.   

Overall I had great performance from the SRAM X0 Eagle AXS T-Type drivetrain and dropper post. However, the dropper post suddenly stopped working in the middle of my third ride. Once I got home I simply paired up the post and control pod, and since then everything has worked perfectly. 

The 30t chainring and 10-52t cassette provide a vast gear range for trail riding, and shifting performance was basically flawless throughout my test. I unfortunately gave the T-Type X0 derailleur’s cage a good smash and a nasty bend, but didn’t notice right away because gear shifting was still fine! The derailleur will skip lightly when backpedaling but it still doesn’t derail at all, which is impressive.

Bontrager’s Line Pro 30 carbon wheels held up great through my test, showing no signs of damage or warpage. The Slash’s wheels come tubeless with a Bontrager SE6 Team Issue 29×2.5” front tire and a Team Issue SE5 27.5×2.5” rear tire. These tires offer a well-rounded tread that rolls fairly fast and provides good grip on all surfaces. 

Bontrager’s RSL carbon bar/stem combo is hard not to enjoy looking at! The rise is 27.5mm, stem length is 35mm, and the bars come stock at 820mm wide. The 7° backsweep and 6° upsweep is a bit more up and less back than most bars I’ve ridden, but I found them comfortable. I would have liked to ride the full width, but my bars had been cut to 795mm. I rode these bars uncut on the previous generation Slash and was surprised how much I liked them.

SRAM’s Code Silver 4-piston brakes with 200mm rotors had no shortage of power, reeling in this big bike with great modulation and more than ample bite force.

The 170mm dropper post on the M/L frame gets low and out of the way. I didn’t have any problems riding with the Bontrager Arvada saddle, but I find it a bit hard and not the most comfortable. 

The Slash’s rear fender seems to work fairly well. After a wet, snowy ride I still had mud spray all the way up the back of my jacket, but less than what I expected. I also noticed the back of the dropper post and under the saddle weren’t that dirty.

Trek’s Carbon Armor seems to help resist frame damage well. After close inspection, I could only find a few very minor knicks or scratches on the Slash. The down tube, BB shell and all the areas prone to rock strikes from the rear wheel remain basically unscathed. 

Frame Storage:

Trek’s in-frame storage was revised for the Slash, offering a larger door and an updated latch. The storage compartment is easy to open and close, and the included Bontrager BITS tool roll has spots for a CO2 canister, an inflator head, a multi-tool, and a tube (although it’ll have to be a thin one). Trek added ‘chunnels’ inside the Slash’s frame to keep your tool roll/cargo from snagging on your cables. They seemed to work well, I had no issues with anything snagging inside the frame.

Bontrager’s BITS steerer tube multi-tool is also included on all Slash 9.9 models – a nice finishing touch for these top-tier builds! 

The 2024 Trek Slash 9.9 X0 AXS T-Type retails for $9399. Frame color options are Daintree, Lichen Green (as tested), or Argent Drizzle.

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At this point, REI is a name that is synonymous with outdoor adventures. However, when it comes to ebikes, it might not be a brand that comes to mind. Much less when it comes to eMTB. But their Co-Op bike brand has been releasing some interesting bikes over the past few years, so when they offered a chance to review their first-ever REI eMTB, I jumped at the chance.

Why? Mostly it was because I hadn’t ridden the latest generation of Bosch ebike motors with the smart system. But also because the REI Co-Op DRT e3.1 seemed like an impressive value – despite the name having too many letters and numbers. In my head, I just call it the ‘Dirty 3.1’.

Priced right at $5k for the complete bike, there aren’t many Bosch-equipped bikes with similar battery sizes and build levels at this price point. Going into the review I expected there would be a few low spots in the build, but in the end, the bike was far better than anticipated.

Bosch eBike System

At the heart of the DRT e3.1 is the Bosch Performance Line CX mid-drive motor with the Smart System. The motor offers 85Nm of torque making this a ‘full power’ ebike. Officially, it’s a Class 1 with pedal assist up to 20 mph. You can still go more than 20mph, but at that point, it will be only under human power.

Along with the motor, the battery is a key component spec when shopping for ebikes. The DRT e3.1 doesn’t have the biggest battery, but the 625wh battery stashed in the downtube is adequate for all but the longest rides. We’re told that currently, the bike is not compatible with the Bosch range extender battery though, so keep that in mind. As Bosch explains it, the charging plug is compatible with the range extender, but REI has to certify that the water bottle bosses are strong enough to support the weight of the battery. It’s possible that it may be certified in the future, but is not at this time. The battery is easily swapped with the keyed frame lock though, so trail-side battery swaps are a possibility if you purchase a spare battery.

Flow App

Initially, the fact that this bike was equipped with the Bosch Smart System was a pleasant surprise. Smart System bikes are compatible with the Bosch Flow app which is quite good. At this point, you’d think every major player in the ebike motor space would have their app connectivity and features completely dialed, but you’d be wrong. The Bosch app works exactly as you’d expect though, and allows you to connect to the bike to see charging and battery status, estimated range, total mileage, and includes customization tools to change ride modes.

There are four customizable settings including the assistance level, how dynamic the assist is, the maximum speed (up to 20 mph), and the maximum torque. These tools can be used to make the bike feel more or less powerful, extend battery life, and even act as a sort of “traction control” to keep the rear wheel from spinning out in loose conditions. You can even use the app to record your rides and see your metrics like elevation, speed, cadence, and how much power you’re putting into the REI eMTB.

If you pay for the Flow+ subscription (or use the 12-month free trial), you gain access to the anti-theft features. That includes acoustic & visual alarms, movement alerts with in-app notifications and location tracking. I’m assuming you can make it so the bike can’t be turned on either, but I haven’t tried this myself to verify.

REI eMTB Stats by the Numbers

• E-Bike Classification – Class 1: pedal assist up to 20 mph
• Assist Modes – Eco, Sport, eMTB, and Turbo
• Motor – Bosch Performance Line CX, the smart system
• Motor Type – Mid-Drive
• Motor Torque (Nm) – 85 Newton meters
• Battery Capacity (Wh) – 625 watt hours
• Battery Removable – Yes
• Charging Time (completely drained) – 5h
• Rated Continous Power – 250W
• Maximum Power – 600W
• Smart Walk Mode – Yes

Assist Modes

When it comes to selecting the level of assist, you have four modes to choose from: Eco, Sport, eMTB, and Turbo. Since the DRT e3.1 only has an LED Remote, using the app will allow you to see how the expected range changes as you cycle through the modes. Of the 339 miles of mountain biking I’ve had on the DRT e3.1, 268 of those have been in eMTB mode. It’s by far my favorite setting, and the app claims it’s actually more efficient than Sport mode.

Unlike the other modes which stay within a linear support level, eMTB mode is a dynamic setting that will provide support from the lowest level of Tour (160% support) to the highest level of Turbo (340% support). That support or assist is provided based on direct input from the pedals utilizing the bike’s torque sensor. The best way to explain it is that while you’re soft-pedaling through a tight switchback, the assist level is kept low. But when you exit the switchback and you get on the pedals to muscle out of the corner, the assist ramps up immediately. The result is power when you need it, and battery savings when you don’t.

With the included Bosch 4A charger, the battery can be fully recharged in about 5 hours. The plug on the REI eMTB is very easy to use, and when not plugged in, the bike has a waterproof rubber cover that should be snapped into place. It’s also worth mentioning that the system is UL 2849 certified which means it complies with potential new laws like the recently passed Initiative 663-A in New York.

The Build

Most riders will likely pick their DRT e3.1 up from their local REI store. In that case, the bike will be fully built and ready for you to ride. For those who don’t live close enough to an REI, or would simply rather have it shipped to them for the $30 oversize shipping fee, you’ll get a bike that is mostly assembled – though you may still have to do some work with the included Park Tool multitool.

When my review sample showed up, there were a few things that needed attention right away. To start, the front brake caliper adapter was on upside down. The arrow should be pointing up, and it’s a simple fix of pulling the caliper, flipping the adapter, and bolting it back together.

I run the seat post pretty low, but the dropper post cable was far too long even if it was extended to the maximum height. This fix is a little more challenging and requires cable/housing cutters, but it’s still fairly easy.

After the first few rides, I noticed that no matter how much I tightened the headset, I couldn’t get it to stay tight. It turns out the steerer was just slightly too long, which there are two ways to fix – add another spacer, or cut down the steerer tube. I already had plenty of spacer stack, so I decided to cut the steerer and scooch down the starnut—perfect adjustment from then on.

Torque Those Lockrings

The last build issue didn’t present itself until I had ridden about 100 miles on the bike. During that ride, I looked down and thought “Huh, it looks like my chainring is crooked?”. The bike was still pedaling, but after I stopped to take a look I noticed that the chainring had come almost completely loose. The Bosch motor uses a spline for the chainring, and there is a locknut that threads down over the top of the ring to hold it in place.

It appears that the lockring had worked itself loose, possibly as a result of insufficient torque from the factory or lack of Loctite. After removing the crank arm, lock ring, and chain ring, I cleaned up the grease as best as I could and reinstalled the chainring. When I reinstalled the lockring, I added Loctite 243 which is a primerless version meant for situations where grease might be present. I torqued the lockring to the proper spec, and haven’t had an issue since.

As a result, I’d recommend having your shop check the lockring torque or do it yourself, and probably add some Loctite as well.

Except for the lockring issue, all of these issues are fairly common for any new bike. The better bike shops will have these all sorted out before a bike hits the showroom floor, but that’s not always the case. If you have an REI close by, it’s worth having them build the bike up to check for any issues, though the competent home mechanic shouldn’t have any problem here.

Sizing and Wheel Size

Depending on your frame size, you may be running 27.5 or 29″ wheels on the DRT e3.1. Both the XS and S frames come with 27.5 x 2.6″ wheels and tires, while the M-XL frame sizes come with 29 x 2.6″ wheels and tires. I was happy to see that the medium REI eMTB came with the bigger wheels and found that the 2.6″ tires were a great choice for the build.

Other than an under-inflated pinch flat, the Kenda Nevegal Pro 2 tires have been surprising. They’ve provided excellent traction in tricky fall conditions, even if it was a drier-than-average fall. They also seem to be impressively durable (the pinch flat happened after I forgot to air up after a few days), though that durability seems to come at the expense of cold-weather performance. If you plan on riding this bike in the winter, I’d recommend switching out to a true winter tire like the 45NRTH Wrathchild Trail.

REI eMTB Geometry

In terms of geometry, the e3.1 is fairly modern but with a conservative reach making it comfortable for beginners without alienating more experienced riders. The highlights include a 66º head tube angle and 77.4º seat tube angle with a 450mm reach and 441mm chainstays for a medium.

Rider Stats

• Rider Height – 5’8″
• Rider Weight – 159lb
• Rider Age – 38
• Size tested – Medium

Who Makes the REI eMTB?

The Co-Op DRT e3.1 feels like a high-quality bike, and the stickers on the box that suggest it came out of the Giant factory support that feeling. REI has not confirmed that Giant manufactures their eMTB, but the Giant Manufacturing Co. label with the serial number all but confirms it.

More Miles or Time on the Bike? Both!

When the DRT e3.1 arrived, it was heading into the fall riding season – my absolute favorite. But it’s also the point of the year where the toll of the year’s riding starts to catch up with me. I didn’t know it at the time, but having access to an eMTB meant that I would get in a lot more hours of riding this fall. Notice I said hours and not miles. It’s obvious that an ebike will probably allow you to ride more miles, but I found it increased the miles and hours. But for October & November combined, I rode 36h in 2021, 29h in 2022, and 60h this year.

Those aren’t all just ebike miles either. Despite sometimes putting in back-to-back-to-back big ebike days on our most demanding trails, I would still have the energy to go out and do gravel rides on a regular bike the next day.

So it’s obvious that having access to an eMTB means more trail time for me, but that isn’t model-specific. What about the DRT e3.1?

Solid Spec

Admittedly, when I was first checking out the e3.1, I somewhat expected it to be good but it would probably need some quick upgrades. I was very pleasantly surprised to find a bike that is very well-equipped right out of the box. After setting saddle height and adjusting the bar and controls to my liking, there wasn’t much left to do other than ride.

Well, technically, I also converted it to tubeless first as well. The REI eMTB comes stock with taped rims and tubeless Kenda Nevegal Pro 2 tires. Inside those tires, you’ll find standard inner tubes, so if you want to go tubeless you’ll need to add tubeless valves and tire sealant. Note that due to the sensor on the rear rim, you’ll need a longer valve stem. I added some of my favorite Fillmore valves, and some sealant, and the tires popped into place without any hassle at all.

Suspension

Running a proven Horst link setup with a RockShox Deluxe Select Plus RT rear shock, the 130mm of rear travel isn’t going to ‘wow’ experienced riders. But what it lacks in sophisticated suspension trickery, it makes up for in consistent, reliable performance. The same could be said for the RockShox Recon Silver RL Solo Air fork – there are many higher-end forks out there, but the ebike-rated Recon is up to the task.

We’ve also read comments on the internet that the SRAM SX Eagle 1×12 drivetrain wouldn’t be up to the task, but so far that appears completely unfounded. I’ve purposely tried to shift poorly to torture the drivetrain as much as possible and it still hasn’t missed a beat. That includes a handful of crashes as well. Is it going to be as robust as a new SRAM Transmission? Probably not, but again, the components are more than capable.

It’s worth mentioning that the frame does have a SRAM UDH making it Transmission-compatible for future upgrades.

Accessories

With a standard side-load water bottle cage, the frame has room for most mid-sized water bottles. There are also top tube mounts for additional storage, though I chose to mount a WTC B-RAD rolltop accessory bag under the top tube for my tools and spares.

Brakes

When it comes time to slow down a 55lb ebike, brakes are important. I was very happy to see the Tektro 4-piston hydraulic brakes with thicker 2.3mm rotors on this build as they have impressive power and modulation. If you’re an aggressive rider or on the heavier side I would suggest upgrading to a 200mm rotor on the front of the bike. The 180mm rotors front and back are adequate, but more front braking power could be useful in certain situations.

There was one upgrade I made to the bike, which was the result of needing to test out components more than the bike needing it. Swapping out the aluminum handlebar for the PNW Loam Carbon bar shown above did result in a slightly more comfortable ride up front.

With all the original components, the complete build wasn’t quite 55lb for a medium, coming in at 54.7lbs. If you go tubeless, you stand to drop almost 0.5lbs at 54.23lbs with a heavy sealant pour.

On the Trails

At this point, I’ve ridden the e3.1 on everything from jumpy flow trails to longer backcountry epics – it’s a bike that feels comfortable in a wide variety of terrain. With 130mm rear travel and 140mm travel up front, the bike is solidly in the Trail category. While there are better bikes for DH-focused riding, I’ve ridden all of our (fairly mellow) DH-specific trails locally just fine.

As mentioned, most of that riding has been in eMTB mode – it just feels the most natural and provides more than enough assistance in any situation without feeling like the bike is doing all the work.

Battery Life / Range

While riding in eMTB mode, on average I have been getting about 26-28 miles to a full charge which has been very close to the estimated range on the Flow app. When connected to the bike, the range estimate will change based on the assist mode, and it will change over time based on your use. I always found the estimated range to be optimistic by a few miles, but not by much. Most of my testing has been on technical trails with a lot of climbing, though not a lot of elevation. The rides where I got 26-28 miles on eMTB mode had about 2,500′ of elevation gain. On one of my rides with more elevation, I clocked 24 miles and 3,488′ of climbing, but didn’t have time to fully empty the battery.

When fully charged, the LED remote will show five blue bars. As you deplete the battery, those bars turn white and then disappear completely one by one. Once the battery level drops to 30%, the last two bars will turn orange. Keep riding, that second orange bar will disappear and then a single red bar will light up telling you that there’s 10% battery left. From this point, there are no more warnings – eventually, the motor will cut out when the battery dies, and that red bar will flash. At this point, hopefully, you don’t have far to ride because this is not a fun bike to pedal without any assist.

Phone as Display

If you want more system detail than the LED remote provides, you can also use the Flow app to turn your phone into a display screen mounted to your bars. In this mode, there are a lot of metrics that can be displayed including speed, battery percentage, remaining range, time of day, riding time, distance, etc.

While the Bosch Performance Line CX isn’t the quietest motor I’ve ridden, it is among the quieter full-power options. The bike is wonderfully quiet as well – no rattling cables or components to annoy you while rolling down the trail.

REI eMTB Pricing & Availability

The retail price of the Co-op Cycles DRT e3.1 is $4,999. If you’re a Co-op member though, you stand to get about $499.90 of that back as reward dollars. Those dollars have to be spent at REI, but there’s plenty of other bike stuff you can spend it on (including valve cores and sealant). If you’re not already a member, make sure to buy a $30 lifetime membership before purchasing the bike.

The bike includes one year of free adjustments and in-store assembly, but REI Co-op members also get an additional year of free adjustments (2 years total), free flat repair labor, and 20% off shop services.

Currently, the Co-op Cycles DRT e3.1 is available in all sizes, all in the Bamboo colorway pictured above.

Takeaway

Overall, the Co-Op DRT e3.1 delivers exactly what you want out of a full-power ebike. The aluminum frame provides a solid foundation for one of the best ebike systems on the market. At $5k, the e3.1 offers a large 625wh battery along with the Bosch Performance Line CX drive system without skimping on other components. You would never know that this was REI’s first attempt at an eMTB, and as a result, it further establishes the Co-op bike brand as a genuine brand to consider for your next bike.

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This is always one of my favorite posts to write because I get to gush over the things that really impressed me each year. No need to sound impartial here, these are the things I love.

A quick primer on me to put my choices into perspective. I’ve been riding most of my life, as a “cyclist” for 30 years, and enjoy all the things, from road biking to gravel to enduro, with most of my time leaning more toward the XC/trail side of MTB. Not because of a preference, that’s just what we’ve got locally.

I also really enjoy e-bikes, particularly for city commuting, cargo bikes, and long-travel mountain bikes. I’ve noticed that the only people who don’t like them are the people who haven’t tried them. I know at least one guy who doesn’t want to try them for exactly that reason. I love to travel, and did quite a bit of it this year, which is almost always an opportunity to ride new bikes in new places with new people, and it’s awesome. Highly recommend it.

On that note, here are my picks for the best products of 2023…

Experience

An overland, MTB & gravel road trip with my son

This trip’s itinerary kept changing almost until the day we left, and I don’t think it could have been better. Out of 16 days on the road, more than half had some sort of adventure. We mountain biked Mt. Nebo (AR), Bentonville (AR), Palo Duro (TX), and South Mountain (AZ). We rode gravel in Organ Pipe National Monument (AZ), after offroading for two days from Yuma to Ajo on El Camino del Diablo (check out that story here). And we hiked the North Rim and Guadalupe Mtn.

We saw friends and family in numerous states, ate amazing Mexican food (perhaps the best we’ve ever had), and boondocked among lava rocks and alpine forests. I got to upgrade the van with a GMRS radio, water tank, and fuel can and play with new apps for route planning. We even got to (finally!) use my recovery gear to get out of soft sand. If you know me, you know I love gadgets and tech, but none of these were the highlight.

The best part of the trip was spending time adventuring with my son. He constantly surprised me on the trail with an uncanny (and typical 18yo fearless) ability to stay on my wheel no matter what the terrain, even pushing ahead and leading through some seriously rocky, techy sections with a lot of exposure. I taught him to drive through soft sand and negotiate rough terrain in the Vandoit, and we both learned how to tow it out (thanks Ron!).

I have a lot of friends, but there are only a handful I could hang with 24/7 for more than a few days. So the absolute best part of this trip is knowing that my son is one of them.

Pisgah Monstercross gravel race

The Pisgah Monstercross barely registers as Type 2 fun. It’s that hard. The 73-mile course has almost 9,000 feet of climbing, but not just any climbing. It’s chunky, rough Pisgah Forest “road” climbing. Some of it’s quite steep. Or loose. Or both. And there’s a lot of it, with most of the mileage found far off the paved roads.

I thought I was prepared. My bike was, and the new Shimano GRX 12-speed group and wheels performed flawlessly (bike shown further below). But it was a stark reminder that I am not a climber and that such courses are meant to make me suffer. The reason I include it here is because I think we all need a reminder that we can do hard things and appreciate them for what they reveal about us. Eric and his crew put on an excellent event. It’s not as highly polished as some, but it’s well-run with great feed stations and burritos and beer at the finish. The campground across the street is fantastic (and convenient!), making this a low-key sufferfest that’s perfect to do with friends.

Bikes

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Lauf Úthald Road Bike

One of the (many) things I love about Lauf is that they aren’t afraid to do weird things if they believe in them. Their leaf spring gravel suspension forks are highly visible proof of that. Less obvious is the new Úthald road bike, which certainly has a unique look thanks to the curved and bent seat tube and deep-drop seatstays. But those are only a tiny part of what makes it special.

The geometry is more akin to XC mountain bikes than road, with a slack head angle and long fork trail, that makes it unbelievably stable at speed. Lauf’s goal was to actually make riders faster rather than just make a bike that “felt” fast, and they succeeded beyond measure. Normally I get sketched out over 42mph. On my first test ride, we hit easily 50mph and I was wishing I had more gear so I could go faster. I’ve never in my life felt so stable, confident, and safe on a road bike at speed, and I don’t think I’ve found my limit on this one.

It’s easy to adhere to tradition and simply meet expectations. Lauf gets my Editor’s Choice not only for making an amazing bike, but also for showing that there are still ways to surprise and delight riders. If you’re in the market for a new road bike, you owe it to yourself to try this one.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Ride1Up Prodigy V2 Commuter e-Bike

I’m as surprised as you are. I’ll have a full review up soon, but suffice it to say this budget e-bike delivers way more quality than should be possible for its price. The Ride1UP Prodigy V2 comes with Gates Belt Drive, Brose mid-mount motor, Enviolo CVT (continuously variable stepless gearing) rear hub, Maxxis Rekon Race tubeless-ready tires, and Tektro 4-piston hydraulic brakes. That’s a lot of high quality, brand name parts for a $2,400 e-bike.

It even comes with a decent-if-unbranded air suspension fork, broad-coverage aluminum fenders, front and rear lights, and a metal rear rack. It’s a Class 3 bike that gets up to 28mph (feels like more, actually), with smooth power delivery and a great torque curve that matches output with effort in a way that feels on par with bikes costing much more. It’s not just me, either, my whole family loves this bike, and all we have to do is adjust the seat height to fit everyone in our house. At 6’2″, I could use another inch of seatpost, but that’s literally my only complaint, and it’s an easy fix.

HONORABLE MENTION: Santa Cruz Heckler SL eMTB

I rode one of Santa Cruz’s earlier e-mountain bikes and was nonplussed, I think mainly because the coil shock never felt right for me, but who knows. I just didn’t feel dialed riding it. So I wanted to give them another shot with the new Heckler SL, and I’m glad I did. It gets an Honorable Mention because I’m still figuring a few things out and need to get more miles on it, but first impressions are very good.

The Heckler SL is reasonably light, weighing 43.1lbs for an XL with Reserve carbon wheels and SRAM Transmission. And it’s reasonably powerful, with the Fazua Ride 60 system getting me up the hills much faster, but still requiring some work on my end, so it feels like I’m really mountain biking. What impressed me is how nimble it is. Climbing a rapid succession of very tight, steep, technical switchbacks at Palo Duro Canyon State Park in Texas, I fought the urge to dab and the Heckler SL rewarded my trust with perfect traction and just the right amount of assist. If you’re a fan of the brand, this one feels very much like a Santa Cruz, just faster.

Drivetrains

EDITOR’S CHOICE: SRAM Transmission

SRAM’s Transmission drivetrain shifts exactly as well as they promised, which is perfectly. It’s pretty easy to set up, seems bombproof, and perfectly leverages their long march toward a universal mounting interface, which benefits every rider whether or not you ever ride this group. Even the shifter pods are growing on me, with a design that’s clearly made for a future full of electronically controlled devices.

That they could bring it to market in the height of everyone else’s supply chain woes is impressive, too. And then they trickled it all the way down to GX group ($1,099 at Backcountry) just a few months after launching the top levels. Additional Kudos for seeing the move to internal stealth brake routing and being first to market with levers that send the hoses parallel to the bar. Even if your frame uses standard cable ports, they make for a very clean cockpit! Well done, SRAM.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: TRP EVO 12 mechanical group

If you’re squarely in the mechanical camp, the new TRP EVO 12 group is worth a look, too. It’s hard enough dancing around Shimano and SRAM patents, but they did that and introduced clever new features (Hall Lock) that keep the derailleur rock solid and completely quiet, even on the roughest trails. Shifter feel is good, with a satisfying mechanical clink and the ability to customize paddle position and the number of gears per push. There’s a lot to like about this group, and it’s refreshing to see competition coming back to the high-end mechanical drivetrain category. Read my full review here for all the details.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: MicroSHIFT Sword 1×10 gravel group

Another mechanical group that really impressed me is MicroSHIFT’s Sword drivetrain. It’s fully mechanical, has 10 speeds, and works like a champ. The best part? The complete 1×10 group, including cranks, chainring, cassette, derailleur and shifter/brake levers is as little as $400 with options to add a higher-end cassette, left-hand dropper remote brake lever, or make it a 2×10 group with a double chainring and front derailleur.

Not only does it work great, I never really found myself missing the extra two cogs. The 11-48 cassette has plenty of range, the clutch keeps the chain onboard and quiet, and the hood and lever ergonomics are fantastic. I paired it with TRP’s HyRD disc brakes and a KMC chain and it’s been flawless. The bike aficionado shop folks that have tried all love it, too. If you wanna gravel without grinding away your savings, this is a great option.

HONORABLE MENTION: Shimano GRX 12-speed

Shimano’s latest GRX 12-speed group wasn’t a groundbreaking change from the 11-speed version, but it is an important update worth recognizing. It brings all of their top-level drop bar groups to 12 speeds. The hood ergonomics are even better than they already were. They get dedicated gravel derailleurs for all cassette sizes, with the ability to swap pulley cages to go between 1x and 2x rather than replace the entire part.

And they stuck with a mechanical option to keep it affordable (don’t worry, Di2 is coming in 2024). I appreciate that you don’t always need to be dramatic with your improvements (or your marketing) to offer something new and better, and this is proof.

Their updated RX880 carbon gravel wheels are also worth a shoutout. They’re as light as most other top-end gravel wheels (1394g), have Shimano’s smooth-as-butter cup and cone bearings with their first-ever swappable freehub body, and are wide enough to handle 50mm tires. And they’re a very reasonable $1,549. I raced the complete group in the Pisgah Monster Cross and it finished stronger than I did.

Components

EDITOR’S CHOICE: OneUp Alloy Handlebar

I avoid alloy handlebars as much as possible. Compared to carbon, they’re harsher and stiffer, transmitting more bumps and vibrations to my hands. OneUp’s carbon handlebar is one of my favorites thanks to an ovalized profile on either side of the stem, creating a flex point that allows just enough compliance to soften any blow. So I was intrigued when they launched an alloy version of it…how could it possibly compare?

Turns out, pretty darn good. It’s immediately my favorite aluminum mountain bike handlebar ever. I swapped it for another handlebar on my Fezzari La Sal Peak with a Rockshox Zeb. Even with 170mm of travel, vibrations and bumps still get through, but it was a noticeable improvement as soon as I installed the OneUp bar. It shares the ovalized tube shaping, and it works almost as well as their carbon bar, but for $70 less. If you have carbon dreams on an alloy budget, the Oneup Alloy Handlebar is the way to go.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Prologo Scratch NDR XC saddle

I’ve generally liked Prologo’s NDR saddle line, but the new Scratch NDR XC race saddle is the best thing they’ve ever made. The various foam densities are perfectly placed, with a softer center over a cutout to relieve pressure points and a flat, wide nose that’s easy to perch upon on the steepest climbs.

The padding on the back is supportive, with a good shape for powerful pedaling but flat enough to easily get behind it. Not sure what the extended carbon tail is for, but it makes a nice little mud flap. It comes with Tirox (hollow steel) or Nack (carbon) rails, and the latter creates a wonderfully light 166g saddle. MSRP is $200 as tested, and the Tirox version is $127.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Granite Designs Aux Bottle Cage

Granite’s carbon-and-thermoplastic Aux Bottle Cage is a side loader that’s compact to easily fit in tight spaces, particularly on smaller and full suspension frames. I love the stealthy matte finish, but the best part is that it’s incredibly easy to get the bottle in and out, yet it holds it super secure. I have it on my trail bike and have never lost a bottle, even a larger 24oz bottle, over any terrain. And it’s only $21.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Industry Nine iRiX headset

Headsets seem like the hardest spot to bring innovation to, but Industry Nine did it with two cool features on the iRiX. Dual lip seals top and bottom keep crud from reaching the bearings, and tiny spacer rings let you adjust the gap between the upper cap and the frame.

That’s a small thing that makes a big difference. Where a standard top cap would need to maintain a larger gap to accommodate different frame tolerances, now you can get an extremely flush appearance without having it rub your frame. Combine that with the brand’s signature good looks, style, and color options and it’s a winner. (Read my review and launch coverage for more)

Wheels

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Hunt Proven Race XC UD Carbon

Hunt’s top-of-the-line Proven Race XC UD Carbon wheels get a very wide 30mm (internal) but shallow (22mm deep) ultralight rims with front- and rear-specific layups, laced with UD carbon spokes, to come in at just 1,271g on my scale (Micro Spline, rim tape, but no valve stems). That’s exceptionally light for a 29er mountain bike wheelset, and they accelerate exactly as good as you’d expect. They’re also very laterally stiff but also comfortably compliant.

I rip corners so fast with these wheels, and climbing feels effortless (as much as it ever will for me). I’ve ridden other ultralight MTB wheels, but these are something special because they give nothing up to achieve their low weight. And they’re only $1,699.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Scribe Elan Carbon 32D

Weighing just 1,345g on my scale (with rim tape but no valve stems), and retailing for just $1,499, the Scribe Élan Carbon wheels are a helluva good deal for a lightweight set. But it’s their performance that makes them a top pick. Wide carbon rims (21mm internal) are paired with ultralight carbon spokes (2.6g each), ceramic bearings, and a 54-tooth single-sided ratchet (6.6º engagement).

That combination of lightweight, stiff-but-not-too-stiff construction, quick engagement, and smooth rolling makes them a potent partner in chasing speed. I tested the 32mm deep model, they also come in 42, 50, and 60-millimeter depths. They also offer options for race bearings with lighter seals and grease, and even 15mm front and QR axle options on top of the standard 12mm thru axle. I want to get more miles on them before writing a long-term review, but I’ve got enough good rides on them to know I like them. A lot.

HONORABLE MENTION: Astral Luna Carbon Approach

The Astral Luna Carbon Approach wheelset is handbuilt in the USA with their Approach hubs, which are made by sister brand White Industries. So you’re basically getting White Industry hub internals, but with a steel freehub body rather than titanium. And they have the same frictionless, effortless spin as White’s hubs, too, with Enduro bearings inside.

Their carbon rim design uses mini bead hooks to make tubeless setup easy and secure, but with a modernly wide 25mm (internal) rim that gives 28-30mm tires a great shape. Or throw gravel tires on them and head off road. They’re reasonably light at 1,538g (on my scale, well under the 1,600g claimed weight, and the included valve stems only add 16g). They’re also reasonably priced at $1,899. If you’re looking for an all-road, all-purpose wheelset that’ll do it job all year round, year after year, this is it.

Tires & Inserts

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Vittoria Air-Liner Light

If I had to name a “Product of the Year”, this would be it. I’ve always understood the benefits of tire inserts, but never wanted to pay the weight penalty. But, the Vittoria Air-Liner Light inserts ($70 at Backcountry) are only 50g each, and they elevate the tire’s performance to a new level. Here’s why: Their semi-permeable closed-cell design will slowly absorb air, meaning that it’ll initially compress when you inflate your tire, but then expand back to normal size over ~8 hours. Then if you puncture, it’ll expand to fill your tire so you can keep riding. Freakin’ magic.

It’s enough to finish a race, or at least get back to the trailhead, without destroying your rim or tire. Not only that, but it supports the tire so well that I can run 3-5psi less than normal, which gives me monstrous amounts of traction and comfort. These are amazing and I want them on all of my mountain bikes. Now they just need to make a gravel version.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Maxxis MaxxSpeed XC tires

Years ago, I got to ride a set of team tires from Maxxis with a ridiculously high TPI casing. They were amazingly supple and felt like they literally melted around every bump and imperfection in the trail. But they weren’t for consumers, sadly, and they would’ve been prohibitively expensive.

Fast forward to 2023 and the new MaxxSpeed lineup gets us pretty close. They’re “only” 120tpi, not the 180-200tpi I recall riding, but the new MaxxSpeed rubber compound makes the most of it, especially since it’s only available on the widest 2.35-2.4″ sizes. That extra volume allows for lower pressures and a supple ride, even with the EXO sidewall layer, and the ultra-grippy MaxxSpeed rubber keeps them planted. I feel faster than ever on these tires. I paired a Rekon Race (front) with an Aspen (rear), but the compound is also available on Ikon and Severe XC tires. If you’re looking for an edge, this is it.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Vittoria Corsa Pro cotton casing road tires

The Vittoria Corsa Pro is their top racing tire, with a ridiculously soft 320tpi cotton casing, grippy Silica & Graphene infused rubber, and tubeless-ready design. They come in 24/26/28/30/32 millimeter widths. I’ve been riding the 700×32 and they’re glorious. They weighed 306g & 309g on my scale, less than the 320g claimed weight.

Many of my road rides include stints on gravel connectors or dirt country roads, and I’ve been able to bring them down to 52psi, at which point they make small gravel and chip seal disappear. Like, totally disappear. It’s uncanny. And that’s with a double ply of Aramid for puncture protection, so they’re tough on the inside. I was worried that the lightly coated sidewall exteriors wouldn’t hold up to those gravel sections, but so far there’s no signs of wear. The only downside? They’re $105 each.

Clothing & Gear

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Velocio MTB clothing

Velocio got into mountain bike clothing this year, and they nailed it. I’ve been wearing their Mesh Bib Liner, Trail Ultralight Short & Micromodal Trail Jersey (pictured above) along with their Merino Tee, and they’re all fantastic. The shorts come with an Arcade belt, which is super low-profile and works way better than velcro straps for keeping the waist comfortably snug. They also dry quickly, making a fine swimsuit in a pinch.

On cooler days, I really like their Ultralight Trail Hooded Jacket and Anorak, the former easily stuffing into a pocket. The Trail Access Hardshell is a heartier jacket, good for the really wet days, and it’s quickly become one of my favorite raincoats for daily use, too. It fits great on the bike, but also off of it, helping to justify the $389 price. Some road brands struggle to do MTB well, but Velocio’s collection is dialed for everything from downcountry to enduro.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Rab Cinder bike clothing

Outdoor clothing and gear brand Rab’s debut Cinder cycling collection is an impressive freshman effort, showing that they paid attention to what cyclists (and particularly gravel cyclists) need rather than just slapping their label on something. The short-sleeve jersey (center image, on my buddy Greg from Pedal Vision) has hidden reinforcements down the back to prevent it from sagging with loaded pockets, and a large center zip pocket makes it easy to stash cash and cards.

The Cinder Cargo Bibs have mesh pockets that’ll just fit a (non “plus”) iPhone with case, but the top edge is flipped inward to create a lip that prevents contents from slipping out. The windbreaker rolls up and its integrated stretch loop and hook lets you wrap it around a top tube, saddle rails (both shown on right), or handlebar. It’s hood has a bendable plastic strip that magically holds its shape even after you smash it into a ball for storage.

The rest of the collection, from a long sleeve tee to insulated jacket and baggie shell shorts are all great, too. I owe them a full review, and there are a couple of things I’d like to tweak, but overall it’s a great bit of kit that I’ve been wearing quite a bit. Also available in women’s versions.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Trek Velocis helmet

The Trek Velocis MIPS road bike helmet is possibly the most comfortable helmet I’ve ever worn. It’s also really light, has huge vents, and is feature rich. Rubber docking ports hold your shades, and a BOA dial wraps its retention system evenly around your head. The cradle folds forward into the helmet when you’re not wearing it, making it easier to pack or rest on a table at the cafe.

MIPS Air adds a bit of rotational safety without adding weight, and OCLV carbon overlays add a bit of strength while actually saving 6g over the prior version. A beveled front edge not only keeps it out of view when you’re biting the stem on a tough climb, and it sits high enough on the forehead to work with the most ridiculously oversized cycling sunglasses. It even has a 5-Star rating from Virginia Tech.

Tools & Such

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Park Tool Flat Snip

The Park Tool Flush Cut Pliers are my new favorite tool. They have a flat side that cuts zip ties perfectly flat, no more pointy remnants to scrape my calves or snag my shorts. They’re the perfect finishing tool, giving your bike a clean, professional look. They’re $25 and worth every penny.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Chap-Snap lip balm holster

I thought the Chap-Snap was silly when I first saw it, and then I went riding in the desert and had to keep fishing my lip balm out of my pocket every 10 minutes. Now I get it. The silicone housing straps to your stem (or wherever), then you remove the cap from your favorite Chap Stick flavor and stick it in there. It keeps it at the ready, and you don’t have to fiddle with a cap while you’re riding, either. That also makes it perfect for riding in winter, making it easy to use even with thick winter gloves, too, and it’s only $10.

EDITOR’S CHOICE: Bluetti AC60 Portable Power Station

It took me using the Bluetti AC60 side by side with several other brands of portable battery power stations to appreciate what makes it unique. There’s no charging brick or special adapter, you just plug it into the wall to recharge it. That’s a small thing, but it’s a big deal if you ever lose those proprietary charging cables. The built-in light (on the back) is bigger than others, too, and it can recharge in as little as 60 minutes.

The AC60 is compact and light, but stores 403Wh of power and outputs up to 600W, enough for most little outings and portable devices. All outlets are covered against moisture, dust and dirt, too, and it works with their (or any) 200W solar panels for off-grid recharging using standard MC4 connector cables. It’ll power a smart trainer for pre-race warmups, and I use it in my car to charge my laptop more efficiently (and more quietly!) than a plug-in DC/AC converter. If your goal is simply to work remote or have an affordable backup for the fridge at home, this is a great little unit.

Many more great products have passed through our hands this year, but this collection highlights the best I’ve seen or ridden. Full disclosure: Each of these products has been chosen purely on their performance and/or technological merits for the reasons described above. Under no circumstances were any of our selections paid for by their producers. Nor was any preference or favor given to advertisers or brands who invite us on trips. Our selections are limited to products that we’ve actually spent time riding/testing in person. So, a brand’s willingness to invite Bikerumor to join a launch event, or to provide product samples, does make it more likely that we will have considered their products simply because we’ve had a chance to try them firsthand.

The post BikeRumor Editor’s Choice 2023 – Tyler’s Top Picks appeared first on Bikerumor.

It’s that time of year again. As the year winds down, I end up thinking back and looking over my pieces for 2023 and awarding my picks for Editor’s Choice. I noticed while doing so, that I didn’t review a whole lot this year… at least not as much as I would’ve liked. And I didn’t do a lot of travel this year.

What travel I did do for the two shows I attended, I could drive to… I didn’t have to get on a plane, which was nice.

I am in a temporary workspace, so I didn’t have a lot of space to store stuff to review… like bicycles. As a result, I only reviewed one full bicycle this year.

I’m not complaining at all. I had a great year, and I know I have a dream job. And, I feel lucky every day to have the opportunity to share bike stuff with you guys. I appreciate you guys. You are a huge part of the success of Bikerumor. I love sharing my thoughts and opinions with you, and I enjoy reading yours.

So, let’s start this year-end Editor’s Choice Awards ritual with a big one for the readers….all of you, even the snarky ones. I do appreciate the crap outta you guys. And, I appreciate the time you take to geek out with us every day, it’s pretty awesome!

You guys butter my biscuits!

Let’s get to the other awards for the year.

Best Bike Experience

Editor’s Choice: MADE Bike Show

As I mentioned earlier, I did attend two shows this year. One was the always fun and crazy Sea Otter Classic in Monterey, CA. The other was the MADE Show which was held in Portland, Oregon. 2023 was the inaugural run of this particular show. MADE is the brainchild of Billy “Souphorse” Sinkford of ECHOS Communication. Billy has an unmatched and contagious passion for the bicycle and all of the culture that surrounds it.

The show was put together to showcase the wonders of the handmade bicycle frame fabricators and the small cottage industry of artisans, parts makers, inventors, and tinkerers that support the handmade bike world. The show wasn’t held in a sterile, boring convention hall, it was held at a cool venue called Zidell Yards. A huge open-air, 100-year-old barge manufacturing building, Zidell Yards matched the feel and aesthetics of the show perfectly. When all was said and done, it was the perfect venue for this show.

Billy’s scope of the show – to turn the world’s attention to the small independent bicycle frame makers, came to fruition with attendance hitting an impressive 5000+ mark for the three days. And to help all of the brands, even international brands take part in the magic, the exhibitor’s booths were very reasonably priced. This was great, as so many of these small brands are true cottage industries with only a single owner/operator.

It was a fun and magical few days in the PNW.

The best bike show of 2023 goes hands down, to MADE 2023. And I’m looking forward to attending in 2024!

Best Drop Bar ATB

Editor’s Choice: Sklar Super Something

The Sklar Super Something was the only bicycle I had the opportunity to review in 2023. And let me tell you, I’ve ridden a lot of bicycles in my day, and the Super Something is pretty amazing. It’s a wonderfully designed bicycle.

It’s also one of the easiest and best-handling bikes I have ever ridden. The geometry isn’t anything trendy, or groundbreaking it’s just a rock-solid blend of perfect angles that lead to a superb handling bicycle. The tire clearance on the Super Something is fantastic, lending to the bike being able to be set up in so many different ways, like a true ATB.

The Super Something I reviewed was the top-tier model of the five Radavist versions made available last year. The new Super Something framesets are designed by Adam Sklar in Boseman, Montana, and manufactured in Taiwan. They retail for $1500 and for a bike that rides like the Super Something, that price is a steal.

My choice for the best bicycle for 2023 is the Sklar Super Something… I will own one very soon.

Best Place for Your Tush

Editor’s Choice: Brooks B17 Special Ti Saddle

Those who know, know. And those that don’t know, don’t care to know. But, that’s OK… here are the facts, Brooks England makes a great bicycle saddle. The most comfortable one. And their B17 model is the only saddle I’ve used for the last 10 years. Sure, I know it’s not for everyone, but it’s the cat’s meow for me.

The Brooks B17 Ti saddle is in no way, light… even with all titanium rails and frame. It is, though, a lot lighter than a traditional B17 Special. A traditional B17 Special (retail: $200) weighs in at 540g, while the B17 Special Ti (retail: $300) version comes in at 444g. It’s not a saddle that you would use while racing a road bike, or racing any bike for that matter. But, if comfort is what you want while getting in those “smiles per hour”, or you hate riding with a pillow between your legs (a chamois), then the Brooks B17, B17 Special, or B17 Special Ti saddle could be your jam.

I have been riding blissfully lycra-free for approx 10 years, and the Brooks B17 has been a big part of the equation when it comes to my comfort while doing so. It does take approx. a hundred miles or so, in my experience, to truly break the B17 in. But man, when it’s broken in and molds to your sit bone anatomy like a butt-glove, it’s magic.

The B17 Ti ramps saddle comfort up a few notches by the added compliance in the titanium rails and saddle frame. This Ti version of this saddle rides like no other B17 I own. It’s the epitome of gluteus maximus comfort.

For my behind, the best saddle for comfort in 2023 is the Brooks B17 Special Ti… butts down.

Best Bar Tape… Ever

Editor’s Choice: Camp and Go Slow Western Rattler Bar Tape

No hyperbole, the Camp and Go Slow Eastern and Western Rattler bar tape is the greatest bar tape available to mankind. I’ve been using the Western Rattler bar tape exclusively for a little over 3 years now. I am in the process of finally getting a formal review of this tape.

But all kidding aside, it’s no joke… this tape is pretty remarkable. Not only is it super-duper handsome, adding a wonderful aesthetic to just about any bike, but it’s also washable and reusable. The colors of either “coast” match leather saddles perfectly…so, you got that going for ya. I’ve used the same tape on three different bar swaps, it still wrapped beautifully and feels great. The tape also comes in a nice little reusable nylon rip-stop bag, that’s made in Pennsylvania.

Coming in two rolls of 3300mm in length, the woven tape can wrap the widest of bars. It’s made of a long-wearing, durable nylon blend. It’s only slightly padded (1.5mm), and the weave of the tape lends to riding gloveless quite nicely as it is very comfortable. It retails for $44 and comes packaged in a USA-made rip-stop bag. No plugs or finishing tape is included.

So, yeah… my pick of the best bar tape in 2023 (and forever….shhhh).

‘Nuff said.

Best Roof Rack

Editor’s Choice: Yakima Rib Cage for Jeep JL

When we got our “new” 2021 Jeep JL back in July of 2023 I immediately started researching racks that could accommodate a rooftop tent. I was shocked by the sheer amount that was available. They were all very expensive and other than one of the methods, all of them required drilling the top of the Jeep.

The top of Jeep Wranglers are fiberglass and removable. So, the rack systems that can hold the occupants of a rooftop tent need to incorporate the inside structure of the Jeep. Drilling through the top, like in this case, is done to use the roll bar for its weight bearing.

While scrolling YouTube, I found an installation video, by Yakima, on their Rib Cage rack system for a Jeep JL 4-door. It looked like a simple-ish install. So, I looked on the Yakima site and was shocked that their rack system was, literally half the cost ($600) of the others I was considering and had almost double the dynamic weight capacity (330lbs). Dynamic weight capacity is, in my opinion, the most important of the weight ratings for a vehicle like a Jeep.

One of the most attractive things about the Rib Cage is that, without load bars on it, it virtually disappears while on the vehicle. Also, the Rib Cage, after being installed, still allows you to take the roof off your Jeep if you so desire.

I installed it almost immediately after receiving it. I watched the video 3-4 times, and other than the daunting task of drilling the roof, the installation went fairly easily. I’ve driven close to 6000 miles, and have done a dozen off-road trips with the SkyRise Rooftop Tent on it, and the rack remains silent with not a single creak to be heard. Impressive.

Best roof rack system for Jeep JLs with 4-doors, the Yakima Rib Cage gets the award!

Best Top Tube Bag

Editor’s Choice: Orucase Top Tube Bag

Magnetic zippers…who’d a thunk? That’s the feature that drove me to review the Orucase Top Tube Bag in the first place. I mean, I think top tube bags are useful and, in some cases, essential gear, but there usually isn’t a lot to “review” about them

Not the case with the Orucase. What makes the Orucase unique is the magnetic zippers. They were a shocking game changer for me when accessing my snacks or phone for photos while riding. In a true one-step/one-handed operation I just dipped my hand into the bag and pulled out my phone… boom, the bag closed right back up, and Bob’s yer Uncle, all in less than a second.

The Orucase Top Tube bag fits my large phone (Google Pixel 6 Pro) too, with no problem. It has a cool cable port which is great for earphones or charging your light or phone. But for me, it’s great for running a charging cord from my phone in the bag down to my dynamo light to charge my phone while riding. It holds my phone, a bandana, a fig bar, sunglasses, and even a banana if you Tetris it in there. It retails for only $50.

It’s a great lil’ bag and my pick for the best Top Tube Bag of 2023.

Best Cycling Shoe

Editor’s Choice: Stomp Lox Slack

I’ve reviewed three different cycling shoes in 2023, One was great, one was close to if not as great, and one was very far from great (for me).

The great pair of shoes is the Stomp Lox Slack – a unique, handsome, sturdy, well-made, comfy cycling shoe that has a nostalgic aesthetic. I’ve got a few hundred miles on them and they are holding up very well. Being that they are closed, suede leather shoes, you pair them with a pair of Pinebury wool socks, and your feet will be toasty warm on cold night rides to drink beer or an early morning #coffeeoutside session.

They’re head-turners and conversation starters as well, as they are reminiscent of 1960s hiking boots. You could even say that they look like the shoes that the MTB pioneers were wearing while flying down Repack.

They are effortless when it comes to clipping in and out of my XT Trail pedals. They are also nice for regular walking during those “off-the-bike” moments. They are great while hike-a-biking too.

Look, they’re a great cycling shoe. The supple soft interior leather, especially in the heel cup, comfortably keeps you from suffering “heel slip”.

Coming from riding, mostly exclusively in Bedrock Sandals, the wide-toe box of the Slacks looked appealing to me. The toe box is wide, but not gratuitously so. It’s perfect for my feet.

The best bike shoe for 2023 goes to Stomp Lox for the unique and versatile Slack cycling shoe.

Parting Thoughts

That’s it! I hope you enjoyed the list. I had a great time testing the gear out and loved sharing my thoughts about them with you guys.

Until next year!

Each of these products was entirely chosen purely on their technical merits, by me personally, and for the reasons described above. More great products passed through my hands in 2023. Under no circumstances were any of my picks, paid for by their producers. Nor was any preference or favor given to brand or advertiser. My selections are exclusively limited to products I’ve actually spent time riding/testing in person. So a brand’s willingness to invite Bikerumor to join a launch event, or to provide product samples can make it more likely that we will have considered their products, if only because we can share our real, firsthand experiences.

The post BikeRumor Editor’s Choice 2023 – Frazelle’s Fun Faves for the Year appeared first on Bikerumor.

This Borealis Crestone review is a long-term look at a bike that has been on the market for many years, but still is delivering smile after smile. Easy to maneuver, yet still stable in notoriously loose conditions. Lightweight & light feeling, even with those massive tires. Not exceptionally progressive geometry these days, but still ahead of its time to create a versatile ride from snow to soft leaves to mud to summer sand dunes…

Borealis Crestone, a benchmark lightweight carbon fat bike

The Borealis Crestone first debuted all the way back in fall 2015. And yes, we’re about to write thousands of words and share tons of photos of a bike that has been virtually unchanged in more than 8 years. You want to know why? Because it is still a great bike, and still getting better with the addition of modern fat bike tires and suspension. Oh, and it’s actually more affordable now than it was eight years ago.

Plus, we’ve spent most of last winter playing in the snow on this bike. Winter is back, and it’s getting thrashed in the snow again. And we learned some lessons, that could be helpful to pass on if you are contemplating a fat bike purchase.

Now, I don’t know if you really do need a fat bike (n+1, and all notwithstanding)? But we live in the mountains and totally do.

Let’s break it down

The Borealis Crestone is a lightweight carbon fatbike with big tire clearance – up to 26″ x 5” or 27.5″ x 4.5” or even 29″ x 3.0″ – and geo ready for 100-120mm of fork travel. We never stripped the frame bare, because a bike with tires this massive is never gonna break the UCI 6.8kg weight barrier.

But built up complete with a KS Lev Si dropper post, an affordable GX Eagle mechanical group, burly alloy cranks, low-cost 26″ wheels but nice 4″ tires, flat pedals, and a Manitou Mastodon fork, it still weighs just 14.16kg (31.2lb). And with the full carbon Borealis fork, it’s 1375g lighter at 12.8kg (28.2lb). Sure that’s no ultralight compared to a carbon XC hardtail, but with tires that easily range from 1200-1700g a piece and tubes that weigh up to 450g, it’s pretty light. And it feels like that out on the trail.

Fat bike standards-wise, the Crestone features a BSA threaded 100mm bottom bracket, 76.5mm chainline, a 31.6mm seatpost, 1.5″ tapered internal headset, plus 15x150mm front & 12x197mm rear thru-axles. It has conventional internal cable routing, including for a stealth dropper seatpost AND a front derailleur if you are still living in 1999.

Borealis Crestone’s limited evolution

This fat bike hasn’t really changed its geometry in a decade, mostly dating back to its Borealis Echo predecessor. But in a wide 4 size range (S-XL), it actually offers longer Reach and lower Slack on our Small test bike than many newer fatbikes. Perfect for out short 165mm tall test rider.

Old School Modern Fatbike Geometry

The fully rigid geometry of the Borealis Crestone seems oddly steep compared to modern hardtails (or some newer fat bikes) with a 70° headtube. But its secret, is that fat bikes are weird. And the loose terrain you ride them in with heavy tires is not normal. That “quicker” handling helps counteract the slow steering you get from 2 kilos of front tire & tube. And Borealis balances it at the other end with long 455mm chainstays, that help keep the bike moving in a straight line for stability, when grip is lacking. It’s much more common to spin out your rear wheel on a fat bike than a normal hardtail. And I can’t remember sliding many snowy freeride downhills where I wouldn’t have killed for more stability.

Oh, and swapping in the 120mm fork… at 30% sag, it does slacken the head angle by 1°, raise the effective Stack by 7mm, and effectively shorten Reach by 11mm. It’s at 50% of that suspension fork travel where the geometry evens out completely with the full rigid setup, which feels like a sweet spot suspension-wise, since it’s only momentary big hits that really go beyond that.

We’ll also ignore the 73° seattube angle a little bit, because Reach is a better measure of fit. And with zero offset MTB posts, you can usually slide the saddle a bit forward for a steeper ‘virtual’ seat angle and improved climbing efficiency, if you want. The trick here though, is that you actually do a lot of seated pedaling to power through loose terrain on a fat bike, so you don’t actually want quite as steep a seat angle as you’d expect on a modern trail bike.

As I said, good fatbike geometry is weird.

But what tires and what wheel size should you get?

This is genuinely the biggest dilemma in the fat bike debate. And really, we’re gonna have to truly answer it in a separate article. But tires and wheel diameter really make the fatbiking experience (as does wildly-low tire pressure). Make the wrong choice in wheel diameter (hint: 26″is dead) and your fat bike will just feel a bit slower than it already is. But get the wrong tires for the conditions you ride. And you genuinely won’t be having a good time.

In ultra-abbreviated fashion. Fork out the money for lighter, more supple tires if you are really riding in snow. If you ride hardpacked or groomed trails – whether dirt or snow – low-profile treads do roll noticeably quicker. But if your terrain is properly loose, make sure you have some structured directional shoulder knobs, as they’ll help hold your line.

If it freezes and thaws at all in your winter season, seriously consider lightweight studded tires – their grip is out of the world. And don’t forget, even though bigger diameter is better, wider isn’t necessarily better. A longer slightly more narrow tire contact patch is likely much easier to pedal through soft conditions, and is easier to control in a straight line.

It’s a lot more complicated than this. But that is a decent starting point.

And what about the actual wheels, themselves?

That’s another more complicated question. We tested 4 basic wheelset options. A super fancy HED carbon 26″ wheel, and more affordable ally 27.5″ HED wheels. Then 27.5″ alloy DT Swiss BR2250 wheels, and budget alloy Sun Ringlé Mulefüt wheels in both 26″ & 27.5″ sizes. The carbon HED wheels cost $2000 for the pair. The alloy Sun Ringlé pair sells today for $420. The difference in weight of a 26″ wheelset is 614g for the pair. It’s not nothing, and we could notice the difference a bit, but it’s not $1600 of performance difference.

Maybe more important, even sticking with butyl inner tubes, we realized we could save 420g for a pair of wheels just using light 27.5+ tubes vs. 26 fat tubes. For no additional cost. Butyl tubes are quite stretchy, and fat bike low pressures are pretty forgiving. All of our wheels are tubeless compatible, but swapping tires around and worry about sub-freezing sealant performance, we never set any up tubeless. And had no issues.

OK, but how does the Borealis really ride?

Fat Bike setup and riding style

My (Veronika) main focus is trail riding and enduro, then gravel riding, and then in winter primarily fat biking. All of last winter and sometime this past summer, I tested the Borealis Crestone. It’s maybe my 4th or 5th fat bike, with a lot of time spent on a couple alloy Duratec expedition Big Paws, faster Fat Jacks, and the more trail-oriented Cannondale Fat CAAD over the past few years. All with rigid forks. The majority of my fat bike riding is on hard frozen surfaces and ice. But I also hunt fresh powder to ride and extend into the melting snow of spring.

Last winter I didn’t get as much packed snow as I wished for. But luckily, we live in a mountain pass, so I still got in 5-600km of snowy trails over 25 separate rides. Those snow freeride rides often don’t rack up the kilometers very fast!

Then, in summer I grabbed the chance to ride sandy beaches on the Baltic Sea.

Borealis Crestone fat bike’s first rides

My first rides were on the original setup that I obtained from Borealis, with a price-conscious mechanical GX build and a rigid carbon fork. Think a roughly $2500 build with a dropper and alloy wheels. The dropper is optional, but obviously a pretty key feature to have on a fat bike. Like any trail bike, it is nice not to stop on the top of a hill and just fly down the trail. BUT with fat bikes specifically, I found it very useful when you need to get back on your bike after crashing in deep snow, passing a non-rideable obstacle, or just simply starting to pedal in steep uphill in deep, uneven snow.

Personally, I don’t love the KS Lev iS dropper, as you have to press the remote pretty hard/far to get the “action”. And once it shoots up, it is like a rocket launch, while I prefer softer, smoother dropper action.

How does it look, and how does it compare?

I rode the bike in differing snow conditions – powder / icy snow / slush / mud / or dust over loose leaves. And I used at least 3 different sets of wheel & 5 tires, in both 26″ & 27.5″ diameters. Always hunting that best combo of weight, grip, steering control & general ride feel.

Compared to the other fat bikes I rode previously – no matter what wheel+tire combo – the Crestone felt lighter, handled extremely well and I fell in love with it pretty quickly. Plus, who couldn’t love the amazing color-changing green-tinted raw carbon frame, that in light (especially in direct sun) really resembled the Aurora Borealis. I know it sounds corny, but when the sun shines this bike looks great.

Without direct light, the dark green frame looks nearly black. But in the light, the carbon structure shines in shades of light green to blue. It’s a simple personal thing, but I wish all my bikes popped like that in the sun.

Curiously, we did a lot of riding inside clouds and in the dark. Such is winter in the Czech mountains.

Fat Bike Riding Review – Borealis Crestone carbon fatbike

While riding, the Crestone and its curious fatbike-specific geometry is simply responsive and climbed easily. I felt I was flying on flats. And I even enjoyed going uphill, as well. Speed was especially pronounced with the larger diameter 27.5 wheels and narrower 3.8-4″ tires. The combination of light carbon frame, rigid carbon fork & oversized carbon handlebar felt really responsive. It’s really a great setup riding smoother packed snowy roads and groomed snow trails. But…

What I actually love the most on winter riding is the possibility to go wherever and feel a freedom of movement, not restricted on roads or defined paths. I like to call the concept Fatbike Freeride!

Fat biking in my mind is linked with the exciting opportunity to explore off-piste riding in untouched snow. Laying down fresh tracks. I can ride in areas that are nearly unrideable in summer. Or simply unpleasantly bumpy due to so many roots & rocks. Once we get that first 30cm of snow and it packs down & freezes, all terrain smooths out. And then, riding in the next couple centimeters of fresh powder is a real joy.

Upgrading for trails to the Manitou Mastodon 120mm suspension fork

However, for such path-free riding or fat freeride trail riding, the super stiff carbon fork is less than ideal paired to the also stiff frame. Riding full-tilt downhill is possible. But it lacked some of the fun. And my upper body quickly tired from all the impacts. So, I swapped in suspension with the 120mm gen 2 Manitou Mastodon Pro fork. At the same time as swapping the fork, I also exchanged the 35mm Borealis bars for a straighter 31.6mm flat Beast carbon bar.

The swap made the Crestone a lot more fun as a winter trail bike. Then, the only thing I had to care about while riding was setting the appropriate tire pressure. Actually a tough call, often in the unbelievably-low 4-8psi range. A shout out to the analog Borealis low-pressure gauge for sorting tire pressure!

Now, I can imagine using the Crestone as an almost year-round hardtail with narrower or wider or studded tires, depending on the season. With huge tires, the bike is quite heavy to lift and get proper air time. But it’s still perfectly comfortable with small jumps or drops, up to say 1/2 meter. It is still a carbon hardtail after all.

Fat Bike Cons

The only real downside being that wider bottom bracket (3cm more than a normal trail bike) that makes Q-factor, pedal stance, and then foot & knee placement wider than a more ideal setup. Since I ride this bike only with platform pedals, I can ‘cheat’ my feet a bit closer together. But the wide stance is certainly noticeable after swapping from my enduro bike in the autumn. And I don’t feel like I will do too many 100km rides on the Crestone.

Also, it is necessary to mention that uphill pedaling efficacy was better with the fully rigid original setup. A suspension fork really depends on individual taste. For off-road fun trail riding I would certainly recommend the suspension fork. But for ultra longer snowy-packed road rides, I would go with the Borealis rigid fork. The one major benefit of the Manitou Mastodon fork though is that it is (relatively easily) internally adjustable down to 80mm of travel, which would be a happy medium compromise for many fat bike riders.

Bike-to-ski

Wrapping up last winter, we played with using the fatbike as a commuter bike to go skiing, too. Ride to the local lift, pedal to groomed XC ski tracks, or just getting up to a good starting point for backcountry skiing. It seemed to me like a really cool idea. So with some versatile 4″ Cake Eaters, I strapped my skialp skis to my backpack and pedaled up to higher elevation to reach deep skiable snow.

It involved a little bit of ski+pack shuffling to make it work. And pedaling up was slow going. Mostly in the granny gear. And we just locked the fat bikes up deep in the snowy woods when we couldn’t pedal any further. But it worked.

We’ll dial it in this winter for a bit more efficiency, and probably some longer approach rides. Because riding to ski is bit of a fun idea, and a pretty solid workout!

Beach life, too!

Looking at the fattest 5″ wide 26″ Terrene Johnny 5 tires, I struggled slowly with them a bit in the snow. But, on sandy beaches, they made the Crestone a lot of fun. That massively fat tire was able to cover soft, deep sand with grip and control.

I don’t usually enjoy the relaxed, lazy beach life. And taking the Borealis Crestone with me to the Baltic seaside was a game changer. And, now I/m looking forward to the next fat bike beach trip, and exploring sand dunes, just as much as I was excited for the first powder this winter.

Winter returns and Final Thoughts on the Borealis Crestone carbon fat bike

So where does that leave us two and a half thousand words later about an old bike?

Well, the Borealis Crestone is a beautiful carbon fat bike that is genuinely a blast to ride. In all types of conditions. Yes, we’d love to see what Borealis could do by modernizing the bike with slightly longer, slightly slacker geometry, and maybe even an flip-chip at the dropout to give you the option for shorter summer chainstays. And really, if we keep riding this bike, we’ll sort out a 100mm BB crankset, but with narrower Q-factor.

But in the end, the carbon Borealis Crestone is a light and versatile fat bike. And it brings smiles every time we ride. Whether riding groomed snow tracks in the winter, muddy root-strewn trails in the spring, or summer sand dunes… we’re happy all year round.

Oh yeah, and it’s hard to argue with this URL:

FatBike.com

The post Fat Bike Review: Borealis Crestone is Still a Fun Bike to Ride, Years Later appeared first on Bikerumor.

The new Shimano GRX drivetrain is here, and so is our test group. Initially, I had plans to build up the T-Lab X3s with the new group, but that bike had been in our hands for nearly a year so it was time for it to head home. Back to the drawing board. 

While debating what to request to hang the new 12-speed parts on, I thought, “what better bike to test out the new GRX group than the bike that I’ve been riding with the old GRX group for years?”

That bike is an absolute favorite of mine: the Otso Warakin Ti. The only catch was that the sample I had for my review was one of the very first frames that Otso had ever received from their frame builder. As a result, it was not suspension corrected and it didn’t have routing for a dropper post.

Otso was one of the first brands to offer a suspension-corrected gravel frame with the ability to run up to 29 x 2.1” tires, and since they updated the frame I’ve been dying to try it out. Once the gravel bike stars aligned, I ended up with the latest version of the Warakin Ti frame, a Fox 32 Gravel fork, and a complete Shimano GRX & Pro build to tie it all together. Time to get started. 

Otso Warakin Ti All-Road / Gravel / Adventure Frame

As mentioned, the Otso Warakin Ti is already one of my favorites. I’ve only ridden it in a rigid configuration and with the non-suspension corrected geometry though, so this one is different. Built from seamless 3/2.5 B338 grade 9 titanium, the frame features internally double-butted tubing on the front triangle. The finish is interesting but minimal with subtle bead-blasted graphics. I’ve put the very first generation through hell, and it’s still riding – and looking as good as ever.

If you order a frame from Otso, you can either choose just the frame for $2,950, or add the Lithic Hilli carbon fork with triple mounts for another $250. Frames also include a Wolf Tooth Performance headset and seat post clamp, all in your preferred color along with the bolt kit and headset spacers.

I’m riding a 54cm – make sure you look at the geometry chart before ordering. Even though it’s labeled a 54cm, it has an actual 53cm top tube and seat tube, and fits smaller than the size would suggest. On the scale with headset, seat post clamp, Tuning Chip dropout system, and rear axle, the frame weighs in at 1,950g. The fork with crown race and axle adds another 610g.

Fox 32 Taper Cast Fork

After riding the RockShox Rudy on the T-Lab X3-S, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on an adventure bike with a suspension fork again. The Fox 32 Taper Cast fork ended up being the starting point for this build, and I’m excited to compare it to the RockShox Rudy Ultimate. I just wish I could find some olive decals to replace the orange graphics to better match the bike.

Shimano GRX RX820 1 x 12 Drivetrain

Onto the heart of the build, the new Shimano GRX 12-speed group. The original Warakin was set up with the Shimano GRX 800 1x group with an 11-40t cassette. So the new group with a 10-51t cassette should provide some welcomed range. For the actual weights of the group, check out our original post here.

For this build, I requested the 1x group with a 172.5 crankset with a 40t chainring. I also requested the dropper post-compatible STI lever – more on that below.

Enduro BB

Originally, this group was intended to go on the T-Lab X3-S, so it shipped without a bottom bracket (Shimano doesn’t make a BB386). After changing plans to build up the Warakin, Enduro Bearings stepped up with one of their XD-15 BSA threaded bottom brackets for Shimano. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen a new Shimano crankset spin so smoothly. It will be interesting to see how this holds up comparatively.

Integrated Dropper Lever

If you’ve spent time on the GRX 800 shifters, the 12-speed version will feel very familiar. This is good, because the ergonomics of the previous version were excellent. The only complaint I’ve ever had with them is the challenging fit of the hood – which continues to this generation as well. After peeling back the hoods to connect the brake lines and bleed the brakes, it’s very difficult to get the hood to cleanly fit back into place.

You have a choice when it comes to brake levers for a 1x group. There are two different LH levers – one that is just a brake lever, and one that is a brake lever and a dropper post lever. In theory, this should make for one of the best dropper levers for dropbars. The lever uses the same motion as you would to shift, so it’s very natural and easy in multiple-hand positions.

However, you need to run the cable with the cable head up at the shifter. That will limit you to what dropper posts you can run since many have transitioned to running the cable head at the seatpost. I found that the compatible Shimano PRO Discover 70 dropper post was just too long for my saddle height on this frame. I had a CrankBrothers Highline XC dropper that was short enough to run, but it requires the cable head at the post so it’s not compatible with the Shimano lever. Anyone with a longer seat post extension likely won’t run into this issue, but for us short people on frames without much room for a dropper, it’s something to consider.

I haven’t given up on a dropper post for this bike, but will need to sort out the remote and post compatibility first.

Brakes

While the brakes look similar, there are some substantial changes. The pads no longer use a flat blade screwdriver for the retaining pin, instead moving to a 3mm Allen bolt. More importantly, the entire bleed system had changed with a separate bleed port on the side of the caliper, and a threaded ‘control valve’ on top. Now, you connect the hose to the bleed port and then control the flow of fluid by turning the Allen screw on top.

The brake pads themselves are also different and now feature a substantial chamfer at the bottom. This was likely done to make it easier to insert the wheel as it will feed the rotor in between the pads better. But since the pad material is the same size, you’re going to see a smaller contact surface on the rotor. Initially, I thought I had something wrong with the caliper adapters on the new build because the pad looked like it was sitting higher – it was just the visual difference of the chamfer.

C32 Carbon Wheels

The WH-RX880 wheels are a C32 model, which simply means they’re carbon with a 32mm depth. You’ll find the same C32 designation on other wheels like those in the 105 lineup, but it’s the WH-RX880 number that distinguishes the model (technically WH-RX880-TL-F12-700C). These tubeless wheels have a 25mm internal width, 24 spokes per wheel, and include the necessary Micro Spline freehub for use with the cassettes needed for GRX 12 speed.

PRO Cockpit

Whenever we get a new Shimano group to build up, they will typically include a complete PRO cockpit. This is a 44cm PRO Discover 12 degree flare aluminum bar with an 80mm Discover stem. Their Gravel Comfort Tape was also included, which is actually pretty nice. It feels like a very robust, tacky bar tape with a 3mm total thickness. The backing is ‘Smart Silicone adhesive’ which helps it stay in place without actually sticking to the bar when you go to remove it. The tape is also extra long with 230mm rolls for wider bars or closer wrapping.

The last part of the PRO package is the Stealth Offroad saddle. The shorter saddle comes in 142 or 152mm widths, and it’s specifically padded for gravel & MTB racing.

Pedals

There aren’t any specific GRX pedals, but like other parts of the group, it borrows from the Shimano MTB lineup. Shimano’s XTR pedals are an obvious choice here, and you’ll have a choice between the standard axle length, or one that is 3mm shorter. That works out to 52mm or 55mm for the crank-to-pedal center measurement.

Final Weight

As it sits with a Zipp carbon seatpost, the complete build with pedals and 45mm Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC tires is 22.5lbs. That’s roughly 1.25lbs heavier than the outgoing Warakin with a rigid carbon fork, GRX 800 group, and similar GRX carbon wheels.

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Equator wheels is now also Equator gravel bikes, thanks to 2 new titanium gravel frames that deliver their same ethos of consumer-direct value and high-performance. Pick from the adventure Yasei or race Sensei, with a couple of affordable ti frames that cover a broad spectrum from all-road to bikepacking off-road. We had the chance to spend several weeks test riding the pre-production prototype Yasei this summer. And now it’s available to the public…

Equator titanium gravel bikes born from affordable wheels

For more than a decade, Equator delivered top quality affordable direct-to-consumer carbon wheels around central Europe, produced in a close development partnership with Taiwanese carbon powerhouse Gigantex.

Now, the leap to making bikes grew out of a passion project on the guy behind the growth of the wheel brand. Jan Habich like to ride gravel. He wanted to develop his own bike. And he wanted to bring that same Equator mix of performance & consumer accessibility to a premium gravel bike.

What’s the difference between the Yasei & Sensei?

The resulting Equator titanium gravel bike project ended up with a bit of an internal squabble at the company. Some wanted a performance-focused gravel bike that could do double duty as an all-road bike or a fast gravel bike. And the other half wanted an ‘all-purpose-vehicle’ that leaned more towards adventure, bikepacking, and riding further off-road.

So they made both. And figured they would let customers decide which they preferred.

The Sensei is the performance gravel bike, with more road leaning geometry, 1x or 2x , and clearance for up to 700c x 47mm tires. More all-road.

The Yasei is the adventure model, with slacker geometry, 1x only, more mounting points, and space for up to 700c x 57mm (29x 2.2″) tires. Closer to a mountain bike.

Tech details

Both frames are welded in Asia from similar seamless butted 3/2.5 titanium tube sets, with mostly round tubes. Equator does now switch to a slightly flattened oval toptube (30mm tall x 40mm wide) for more horizontal flex, less torsional flex & improved rider comfort.

And rather importantly in my book for modern gravel bikes, plenty of key future-proof standards. A T47 threaded bottom bracket, a UDH universal derailleur hanger, flat mount disc brakes, 12mm thru-axles, and a 31.6mm seatpost with internal routing for a dropper. Plus, a little bonus chain hanger above the driveside dropout for cleaner transport with the wheel removed.

Both also share the same tapered headtube fitted with an external Cane Creek Angleset headset that lets the end buyer customize the geometry to their preference from -1.5° to + 1.5° in 1/2 a degree steps. And they each get their own discipline appropriate full carbon forks. The Yasei adventure fork includes flush Anything cage mounts, plus a flip-chip at the dropout to adjust the rake between 47 or 52mm offset for consistent loaded or unloaded handling, or just to tune your ideal ride.

The Sensei gets a sensible amount of attachment points. Two sets of cage mounts inside the main triangle, a direct mount for a toptube bag, and a pair of cage bosses under the downtube just in front of the BB.

Then, the Yasei takes it to the next level for adventure, adding of course the fork Anything cage mounts, and turning that mount under the downtube into a 3-bolt Anything cage mounts. You also get rear rack mounts and separate tabs for full-coverage fenders front & rear. (It will not include the anything cage mounts that were on the prototype I tested, due to clearance issues while pedaling.)

What else is new?

Beyond what I saw and tested in these 2 prototypes, Equator has further refined the titanium gravel bikes that you will actually buy with a few more improvements. Maybe the biggest in my mind based on my feedback to them, will be smaller diameter size-specific butted seatstays for improved rider comfort. The early prototype I rode still had 19mm stays and was quite a bit stiffer than it needed to be. But production bikes scale back to 16mm for small & medium and 17mm for large & XL frames, to further benefit from that classic smooth ti ride.

The frames you order today now also get a new unified port (similar to this routing port example) on the side of the headtube for cleaner internal cable routing without frame rub. Fewer holes in the frame is always better, right? Rear derailleur cable routing also now comes out directly from the end of the chainstay which is a cleaner look (and better structurally). Plus, you won’t see it if you build up a wireless shifting bike. /

They also both now get a 3-pack of cage mounts on the downtube. So riders can mount a single bottle down low if they run a partial frame bag, or raise it up to fit two bottles inside the main triangle.

Updated bottom bracket & chainstay yokes

The latest iteration of the fast gravel Sensei features a 3D-printed double-wall bottom bracket cluster that diverts cables away from the spinning bottom bracket. And it gets a hollow 3D-printed chainstay yoke so cables stay completely inside while keeping 1x or road compact 2x chainring clearance.

The adventure Yasei keeps a CNC-machined chainstay yoke to help fit bigger tires with up to a 1x 46T chainring. And the cables route externally from in front of the BB, around to the chainstay. The rear brake does stay inside the downtube over to the left chainstay, though.

Geometry: Sensei vs. Yasei

Both bikes come in a pretty common Small to Extra Large range. But Equator adds a fifth M/L size in the middle of their fast gravel/all-road Sensei to cater to the more particular fits of road riders with smaller sizing steps.

With more of an on-road focus the Sensei gets a steeper 71.5° head angle. And short chainstays (for such big tire clearance). And appropriately much lower Stack height for more aggressive fit on the bike, with more conventional Reach figures.

Still off-road capable, though.

The Yasei is only a bit slacker at a 70° head angle for a still quick feel with the longer chainstay. And much longer front center. Fit is much more upright with taller frame Stacks. And the adventure gravel bike gets considerably longer Reach, meant to be set up with shorter stems.

Review: Equator Yasei affordable titanium adventure gravel bike

Equator lent me their medium-sized prototype of the Yasei adventure gravel bike for about a month this past summer. Weighing in at 10.44kg complete with a dropper post and pedals, it isn’t exactly light. But I’ve ridden multiple cheaper & more expensive new carbon gravel bikes around 10.1kg this summer, so it’s not really bad either for a metal bike that should last forever.

Test riding the adventure-ready Equator Yasei titanium gravel

Then, I rode it all over my local dirt & gravel roads, plenty of singletrack, and one bigger light bikepacking trip across a couple of Czech mountains. Most importantly, Equator were very open and welcoming to my feedback, and specifically addressed my one primary concern. And even corrected a small nit that I picked before the bikes went into production.

Just like the prototype arrived to me, I was quite happy with the fit and feel of the bike. The mid-long Reach and low Stack supported a nice aggressive position on the bike. But you could always set it up a bit more relaxed if you prefer.

Geometry-wise, the bike has quite a long wheelbase which lent great all-surface stability. But with the 70° headtube, the ride still felt quick, even with the big knobby 44mm Raddler tires. I only rode the fork flip-chip in the forward-most 52mm offset position, with its lower Trail setting. I never felt the need for extra stability. But I also didn’t have time to play with the adjustable angle headset. In the end though, I really appreciate the adjustability (without too much extra complexity). And if it was my personal bike, I would experiment with which setting I like best for my riding terrain. And then set it and forget it there.

There definitely feels like enough adjustability, that I would pick this over the Sensei, because of the flexibility that comes with the extra tire clearance. Even for more of a fast gravel setup with fast-rolling 40mm tires, the Yasei is still a solid bet.

What that means though, is that buyers would probably pick the Sensei for more all-road-specific riding. Or a tiny bit of weight savings. Or for someone just looking for a more conventional road fit with lower Stack & shorter Reach.

Updates based on my prototype testing

So my only real concern was rear end stiffness. With 19mm seatstays on the prototype Yasei, I felt a bit beat up after riding all-day on chunky gravel and rougher mountain bike trails. So, Equator revised the rear end. They swapped in much more forgiving 16 or 17mm butted chainstays that will likely go a long way to filtering out rough gravel buzz.

And to match that, they shifted to a 1cm flattened top tube for a bit more give.

I have NOT ridden the updated bike yet (maybe next spring). But Equator assures me that both the new Yasei & Sensei that went into production with these tube shaping updated are noticeably more comfortable, while not sacrificing any of the excellent handling stiffness that I experienced.

And that last nit I picked? I felt that the Anything cage mounts were located too high on the downtube. I had to use a Fidlock setup to fit a bottle under my frame bag. So they shifted the mounts down. The upper pair of bolts stay where I had my bottle, but now there will be one hole lower. If you want just one bottle then, you can get it lower.

Equator Yasei & Sensei titanium gravel – Pricing, availability & options

Technically both the new Equator Yasei & Sensei titanium gravel bike framesets are available now in a made-to-order pre-order scheme. To order one now you pay 50% up front, and the remainder a couple of months later when they arrive. But…

Equator does also plan to keep a number of S/M/L frames in stock starting later this month. So you won’t necessarily have to wait long if you get one of their limited stock.

Both framesets officially retail for 2440€. But Equator is currently offering a 10% discount on the frames until the end of December 2023. That means you can pick up an Equator titanium gravel frameset for 2200€ this month only. With European and worldwide delivery available.

They will also sell you a stock electronic shift, carbon wheelset complete bike build of either frame for 5500€. The Yasei gets Rival AXS 1x & 44mm WTB Riddler tires. And the Sensei gets GRX Di2 2×11 & 40mm Tufo Thundero tires. Or they’ll even work individually with buyers to put together a custom build.

Equator-cycling.com

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